Drai’s Cafe in Beverly Hills Offers Stripped-Down Menu

With the opening of Drai’s Cafe in Beverly Hills, Victor Drai now has someplace to put all the folks he can’t manage to squeeze into Drai’s, his West Hollywood spot with paparazzi permanently staked out in front. The celeb-hounds haven’t ferreted out the new cafe--yet. So there’s still a chance to slip in, unnoticed. Not that many of this crowd would want to.

After months of renovation, the site of the former Carson’s (and before that Carroll O’Connor’s Place and the Ginger Man), never looked lovelier with its velvet leopard print banquettes and graceful potted palms. So, hey, pile on the animal-print separates; you’ll fit right in.

The menu is a stripped-down version of Drai’s with items organized by price, from cheapest (any of four soups or a mixed green salad) to most expensive (Maine lobster salad). Menu descriptions are short, and for the culinarily impaired, easy to understand, i.e., Steak Tartar (served raw). For the most part, it’s straightforward bistro food--main course salads, pasta, grilled fish, poultry and meats. There’s also a comforting shepherd’s pie served in a miniature copper saucepot.

Only a few days old, the place was running smoothly, the food coming out on time, the waiters nonplused. Everyone was having a swell time. Except the two sourpusses seated side-by-side at a banquette. They sniffed at their Caesars and traded them in for two other salads, and when their main courses came, grouched about them, too. If I hadn’t known better, I might have assumed these two impossible customers were restaurant critics.

* Drai’s Cafe, 369 N. Bedford, Beverly Hills, (310) 247-2005. Open Monday through Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Appetizers $5-$14; entrees $14-$25.