Bracing for an Invasion : Avocado Growers Fear Pest Infestation if U.S. Lifts Mexican Import Ban

California avocado farmers are bracing for a possible decision by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to lift an 82-year-old ban on shipments of fresh Mexican avocados to U.S. supermarkets.

Southland farmers, who produce 95% of the U.S. crop, fear that such a decision could lead to an invasion of Mexican fruit flies, seed weevils and other pests that could potentially devastate their own orchards. A decision could be announced in January or February.

In 1995, the USDA proposed to inspect Mexican orchards and restrict Mexico’s avocado shipments to the Midwest and Northeast from November through February. But Californians fear that cheaper Mexican imports would give rise to a black market that would bring the creamy fruit illegally to California, possibly endangering crops here.

Avocado industry insiders say the government is inclined to favor Mexican growers in this case--despite strong indications from scientists that the safeguards are inadequate--because of the North American Free Trade Agreement.

“The political wake left by the NAFTA boat is moving the proposal forward to mollify Mexico,” said Mark Affleck, president of the California Avocado Commission, which represents 6,000 farmers.

Growers themselves, having enjoyed a pest-free industry for decades, are leery.

“As soon as the border is open, they will bring avocados across and that will bring the bugs,” said Ralph de Leon, a Mexico-born farmer of avocados and citrus in Santa Paula. “I think it’s going to be a disaster if they bring the bugs with them.”

Mondavi Move: Is this the wine industry equivalent of carrying coals to Newcastle? Robert Mondavi Winery, already involved in joint ventures in Chile and Italy, took another step toward becoming a global player in its booming industry by announcing plans to move its Vichon Winery in Oakville, Napa Valley, to the Languedoc region of southern France over the next several years. The image of Languedoc, an ancient wine-producing region, has slipped as the area has become known for bulk wines--sort of “the Fresno of France.” But a renaissance is underway there as vintners begin concentrating on classic French varieties. New Vichon wines to be introduced in January will include three traditional Mediterranean varieties--Chasan, Syrah and Viognier. Long-term, said Mondavi spokeswoman Nancy Light, “our plan is to find a partner in France to do an ultra-premium wine.”

Say Cheese: Beleaguered dairy farmers in California, the nation’s leading dairy state, and elsewhere who have panicked recently over drops in farm milk prices have received a small assist from the government. The USDA authorized unusually early purchases of mozzarella cheese for the months of March and April for school lunch and other federal programs. “This action . . . should help the nation’s dairy producers by removing additional product from the market at this time,” said Grant Buntrock, administrator of the department’s Farm Service Agency. Dairy prices surge at the holidays because of rising demand for butter and other products for baking and entertaining, but this season “prices have fallen precipitously,” a USDA spokeswoman said.

Martha Groves can be reached by e-mail at martha.groves@latimes.com or by fax at (213) 237-7837.

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Holy Guacamole

First grown by accident, Hass (rhymes with “pass”) avocados have become the mainstay of California’s avocado industry.

History: Rudolph Hass of La Habra bought seedling trees in 1926 to use as rootstock on which to graft other varieties of avocado bud trees. The grafts did not take, but a seedling grew, bearing a darker-skinned variety of avocado with a particularly creamy texture. Hass patented the tree in 1935.

Varieties: Hass accounts for 85% of the state’s crop. Other varieties are Bacon, Zutano, Gwen, Pinkerton, Fuerte and Reed. Legend has it that the first avocado was eaten in Mexico by a Mayan princess about 291 B.C.

The industry: About 6,000 growers farm 60,000 acres of groves in Southern and Central California, reaping $250 million a year in revenue. The state’s crop--all 338 million pounds of it--accounts for 95% of U.S. avocado consumption.

Consumption: Of the half-billion avocados bought annually, 75% are consumed in the Pacific states, the Southwest and Texas. Avocados are a fruit, containing more potassium per ounce than bananas.

Season: Hass avocado season begins in mid-December.

Price: Shoppers typically pay $1.19 to $1.29 per avocado at retail.

Biggest days: Cinco de Mayo and Super Bowl Sunday.

Source: California Avocado Commission.