In the Mood

The best rotisserie chicken has sticky-crisp skin, juicy meat and relatively low fat content: No wonder it has eclipsed fried chicken as a takeout mainstay.

* Zankou Chicken: Zankou’s rotisserie chicken is liberally glazed with garlic, salt and lemon, which gives it a golden, crisp skin and tender, moist meat. A whole bird is served with hummus, pita bread, green olives, pickled turnips and a sauce that is irresistible. Zankou Chicken, 1415 E. Colorado St., Glendale, (818) 244-1937; 5065 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 665-7845; 5658 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 781-0615. Whole chicken, $6.95.

* Pollo Inka: A small chain of inexpensive Peruvian restaurants and one of the South Bay’s greatest treasures, Pollo Inka has opened a branch on Barrington and Wilshire. Its bird is deeply marinated and whirled until the skin turns a lacquered, sticky brown. Served with a chile-cilantro sauce. Pollo Inka, 11701 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 571-3334; 1938 E. Alosta Ave., Glendora, (818) 963-1044, and five other South Bay locations. Whole chicken, $9.25.

* Pollo a la Brasa: Another Peruvian, this small stand on the corner of Eighth and Western has wood smoke to get your mouth watering from blocks away. This may well be the best wood- roasted bird in down-bone-deep flavor; succulent, smoky meat; caramel skin. Served with a bracing ahi sauce. Pollo a la Brasa, 764 S. Western, Los Angeles, (213) 382-4090. Whole chicken, $11.90.

* Reddi Chick: In the folksy Brentwood Country Mart, Reddi Chick sells small but plump birds with alluring crispy skins and a side of sweet barbecue sauce. As a side dish, choose from a couple of dozen gourmet stuffed potatoes. Reddi Chick, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, (310) 393-5238. Whole chicken, $7.75.

* Marouch: The flavorful chickens come wrapped in flat-bread with pickled turnips and green olives. Prices for a whole chicken vary radically at the strip mall location in Hollywood ($7), and the swank, new La Cienega restaurant ($11). Marouch, 4905 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 664-4229, and 137 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 289-0654.

* Cafe Pinot: At Joachim Splichal’s bistro-by-the- library, Cafe Pinot, the crisp, rotated bird, either plain or flavored with mustard, is a popular takeout item with the downtown lunch crowd. Cafe Pinot, 700 W. 5th St., Los Angeles, (213) 239-6500. Whole chicken, $12.95.

* El Gallo Giro: The garlicky, chickens at this bustling East Los Angeles spot come with beans, tortilla and fiery fresh salsa. El Gallo Giro, 5686 Whittier Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 726-1246. Whole chicken, $7.