Bring the Outdoors In

Even when it’s too cold to grill outdoors, you can get results that are almost as good if you use a stove-top grill.

There are several on the market. Some, with a two-burger capacity, are designed for smaller households; others fit over two burners for larger-scale cooking. For best results, choose a nonstick pan or flat grill with a grooved interior that imprints grill lines on your food. A heavy grill utensil will allow you to turn up the heat and get a great crust on your food just as if you were cooking over coals.

You’re better off with fish than meat to avoid the problem of fat dripping into the fire and smoking up the house. Dark, meaty tuna steaks--low in fat but full flavored--are great for stove-top grilling.

To start, make a fresh red pepper relish. It can stand at room temperature for at least an hour. If your grill has the space, cook thinly sliced baking potatoes brushed with olive oil, garlic and oregano. If not, bake whole potatoes. Just before you’re ready to eat, put on the steaks.

PAN-GRILLED TUNA WITH RED PEPPER RELISH

3 tablespoons olive oil plus extra for brushing fish and grill

1 red bell pepper, chopped

1 shallot, minced

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt, pepper

2 (1/4-pound) tuna steaks, 1/2 inch thick

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in small skillet. Add red bell pepper, shallot and red pepper flakes and saute over medium heat until pepper is tender, about 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, vinegar and lemon juice.

Puree mixture in food processor or blender. Remove to bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir again just before serving. Makes about 1 cup.

Brush stove-top grill pan with olive oil. Heat over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Brush olive oil on both sides of tuna steaks and season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill tuna on one side 2 to 3 minutes over high heat. Ease onto second side and cook another 2 minutes or until done. Remove immediately.

Arrange 1 tuna steak on each of 2 plates. Either top with relish or serve on the side.

Makes 2 servings. Each serving, with 1/4 cup relish:

348 calories; 257 mg sodium; 34 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 21 grams protein; 0.12 gram fiber.

GRILLED POTATO SLICES

2 baking potatoes

1 clove garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon crushed dried oregano

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

Slice unpeeled potatoes 1/4 inch thick. Soak in cold water to cover 1 hour. Drain and pat dry.

Combine garlic, oregano and olive oil in bowl. Brush potato slices on both sides with mixture and place on preheated grill pan. Grill potatoes over medium-high heat 15 minutes. Flip potatoes over. Again brush with olive oil mixture and grill until tender, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Season with salt to taste. Serve hot.

2 servings. Each serving:

210 calories; 155 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.52 gram fiber.