In The Mood / Omelets

* Moustache Cafe: If the lengthy menu confounds you, limit your choice to the excellent omelets--spinach, ham, ratatouille, herb mushroom or the Moustache omelet with ham, cheese, tomato and mushrooms. ($7.25 to $8.50). Moustache Cafe, 8155 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 651-2111; 1071 Glendon Ave., Westwood, (310) 208-6633.

* La Frite: At these long-lived classic French cafes, omelets come with one, two or three items, including tomato, cheese, bacon, ham, olives, sauteed mushrooms, chives, ratatouille, avocados and onions. Served with pommes frites ($6.50, $7.50 and $8.50). La Frite, 15013 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 990-1791; 22616 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, (818) 225-1331.

* Clafoutis: On the Sunset Plaza, this enticing indoor-outdoor cafe/bakery serves great omelets until noon. Choose a plain omelet, or the familiar ham and Swiss, or an omelet filled chicken-and-apple sausage and tomatoes, or one with smoked salmon and goat cheese. All come with gratin potatoes, fresh fruit and French rolls ($5.95-$8.50). Clafoutis, 8630 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 659-5233.

* Omelette Parlor: The menu has 13 omelets. The most popular is made with mushrooms, tomatoes and basil; first runner-up is the Spanish vegetable omelet. All are served with grilled potatoes, whole wheat English muffins and fresh fruit garnish ($5.99 each). Omelette Parlor, 2732 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 399-7892.

* Green Street East: Tucked away off South Lake in Pasadena, this upscale coffee shop specializes in over-stuffed designer omelets, including Otto’s Potato Patch with red rose potatoes, onions, bell peppers and Cheddar cheese with sour cream on top and Katherine’s Omelet, filled with grilled chicken breast, mushrooms, onions and Mornay sauce ($6.50-$8.50). Green Street East, 146 Shoppers Lane, Pasadena, (818) 577-7170.

* Snug Harbor: This friendly diner-with-patio bestows catchy names on its omelets. The Godmother boasts fresh tomatoes, mozzarella and basil; After Hours features turkey chili, cheddar cheese and jalapen~os. Mind’s Eye is your choice of three to six items. All come with home fries and toast ($5.25 to $6.50). Snug Harbor, 2323 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 828-2991.

* Cafe de Paris: The most popular omelet at this French cafe is the Cafe de Paris with tomato, onion, avocado, mushrooms, asparagus and ham, bacon or chicken. There are also omelets Francais (plain) and Espan~ol (with potato and onions). ($5.25 to $7.25). Cafe de Paris, 640 N. Robertson Ave., Los Angeles, (310) 358-0908.