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NUNN OTHER?

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Regarding “The Resurrection of Kem Nunn” (by Frank Clifford, March 9): Nunn’s resurrection may be something of a literary second coming, but I don’t believe that many surfers will be joining his new cult--least of all those whose middle-aged surfing lifestyles remain centered on the traditions and challenges of riding California’s most powerful waves.

These surfers know that Humaliwu is a Chumash name for a village (now Malibu) that means “place where the surf sounds loudly,” and they would cringe at the misuse of the word to fit the needs of a novel. They know the real outlaw stories about Mickey Dora, not the phony legends quoted by sycophants. They even have careers and families, yet stay tuned year-round, both physically and mentally, to the rhythms of the groundswells that march in from the open ocean.

Nunn apparently got his take on surfing while stranded high and dry on some beach of the personally bereft, a tourist unable to actually paddle out into the liquid energy of which he writes.

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Wiping out while trying to capture the spirit of surfing is certainly nothing that’s new, but at least Frankie and Annette didn’t take themselves seriously.

Glenn Hening, Founder

Surfrider Foundation

Oxnard Shores

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