1994 Bernard Chave Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone Valley (About $17)

Bernard Chave’s Crozes-Hermitage--from the larger appellation just upriver from big-ticket Hermitage--is a wild boar of a Syrah that just about exhausts your repertoire of adjectives. It’s a thick, glorious stew of berries, leather, cigar and herbs. Young as it is, its tannins aren’t harsh or punishing. This is a wine with presence, so it’s best to pair it with something simple and robust, like a grilled butterflied leg of lamb, a peppercorn-encrusted steak or maybe some ribs marinated with thyme, garlic and pepper.