1994 Cha^teau La Louviere Pessac-Leognan (Graves) (About...

1994 Cha^teau La Louviere Pessac-Leognan (Graves) (About $20)

White Graves, made from Sauvignon Blanc with a proportion of Semillon (the grape that makes stunning sweet wines in the neighboring Sauternes region of Bordeaux), is marvelous with food, especially shellfish and seafood in sauce. It is delightful young and gains even more nuances with age. La Louviere makes a particularly fine version. Pale gold with glints of green, the 1994 is soft and ripe with a firm core of acidity and a long complex finish. One sip leads to another. It drinks beautifully now and will only get better in a couple of years.

A limited quantity of 1995, perhaps an even better vintage, is just entering the market but is priced quite a bit higher.