Sips and Bites

It’s often said that the first rule for throwing a cocktail party is to get rid of the tables and chairs. One of the stated advantages is that a chair-free room keeps gatherings short--balancing drinks, hors d’oeuvres and spike heels is not an endurance sport.

But I like my friends and want them to stick around. If you’re having a cocktail party at your home--and it’s not a business gathering--I think a more comfortable approach is the way to go. This is especially true on New Year’s Eve, in effect the year’s ultimate cocktail party, when the countdown to midnight is meant to last longer than the typical get-together over drinks.

I say you should keep the chairs and tables but separate them. Load the tables with food and drink so that everything is accessible. And arrange the chairs so that you have several areas for people to sit and talk.

If you’re expecting a large crowd, try to do as much as you can in advance so you can enjoy the party too.

Many of the appetizers here are very simple and can be prepared ahead of time.

Roquefort puffs--blue-cheese-filled puff pastry bites--are so delicious it’s hard to stop eating them. Yet they’re amazingly easy to put together with store-bought puff pastry and can even be made ahead of time and frozen, ready to be warmed when you’re ready.

It’s important on dress-up occasions like New Year’s Eve that much of the food be beautiful to look at. Grilled polenta diamonds taste great with their topping of olive tapenade and roasted eggplant, and with a garnish of roasted red peppers to set off the yellow of the polenta, they look great too.

Boiled or steamed shrimp, which can be bought precooked, are terrific with cilantro dipping sauce instead of (or in addition to) the usual cocktail sauce.

A few porcini mushrooms and a splash of Port transforms ordinary chicken liver pa^te into a special-occasion spread.

Skewers of curried scallops and lime juice-flavored mango are easy to eat and easy to make.

On top of spears of endive, a great appetizer base, we amped up the usual cream cheese spread with sour cream and prosciutto. Asparagus tips add color and crunch.

You could call our focaccia two-faced: One side is topped with walnut pesto, the other with a mixture of Gorgonzola cheese and black pepper.

Even with all the finger food--necessary when you’re trying to promote mingling--it’s still a good idea to serve something that seems a little more substantial. People often stuff themselves on hors d’oeuvres but leave feeling as if they haven’t eaten. Chicken chili with roasted corn, green chiles and black beans can be eaten in small plastic bowls and give guests the sense that they’ve had a meal--and a good time.

New Year’s Eve Hors d’Oeuvres

Grilled Polenta With Olive Tapenade and Roasted Eggplant

Two-Sided Focaccia With Walnut Pesto and Gorgonzola-Black Pepper Topping

Roquefort Puffs

Shrimp and Cilantro Dipping Sauce

Porcini-Chicken Liver Pa^te

Curried Scallop and Mango Skewers

Endive With Asparagus and Prosciutto

Chicken Chili With Roasted Corn

INGREDIENTS

Shopping List:

1 eggplant

1 (6-ounce) jar kalamata olives

1 (7 1/2-ounce) jar Nicoise olives

1 (4 1/2-ounce) can black olives

3 red bell peppers

1 bunch parsley

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

2 baking potatoes

1 (5-pound) bag bread flour

1 (6-ounce) package walnuts

3 bunches mint leaves

1 (1/4-pound) package Gorgonzola cheese

1 (17 1/4-ounce) package puff pastry

1/4 pound Roquefort cheese

2 bunches cilantro

1 bunch green onions

1 bunch parsley

1 (1-inch) piece ginger root

1 bunch celery

1 pound chicken livers

1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

1 pound shrimp

1 pound scallops

2 mangoes

1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts

1 Anaheim chile

1 jalepen~o

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes in puree

2 ears corn

1 (15-ounce) can black beans

1 (9-ounce) package corn chips

2 (6-ounce) packages cream cheese

1/2 pint heavy whipping cream

1 bunch chives

3 heads endive

40 spears thin asparagus, about two bunches

3 (4 1/2-ounce) boxes water crackers

Staples:

Bay leaves

Black peppercorns

Butter

Corn meal

Chili powder

Curry powder

Eggs

Garlic

Lemon

Limes

Extra-virgin olive oil

Onions

Port wine

Salt

Sesame seeds

Shallots

Vegetable cooking spray

Vegetable oil

Countdown:

The day before: Make the polenta, tapenade, roasted eggplant puree, mint pesto, cilantro dipping sauce, pa^te and cream cheese dip. Wrap and refrigerate each item separately. Make the chili up to adding the reserved chicken. Roast the red peppers, peel and refrigerate. Assemble the Roquefort Puffs and freeze.

The morning of the party: Make the focaccia. Blanch the asparagus and refrigerate. Move the Roquefort Puffs from the freezer to the refrigerator.

1 hour before guests arrive: Assemble the Grilled Polenta appetizer. Slice the focaccia. Arrange the pa^te and crackers on platter. Assemble Endive With Asparagus and Roasted Red Pepper Cream Cheese appetizer. Assemble the Shrimp With Cilantro Dipping Sauce.

30 minutes before: Assemble the Curried Scallop and Mango Skewers. Egg wash and bake the Roquefort Puffs. Heat the Chicken Chili.

10 minutes before guests arrive: Grill the Curried Scallop and Mango Skewers. Add beans, corn and cilantro to the chili.

GRILLED POLENTA WITH OLIVE TAPENADE AND ROASTED EGGPLANT

POLENTA

4 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup cornmeal

Vegetable cooking spray

ROASTED EGGPLANT

1 eggplant

4 cloves garlic, halved lengthwise

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

OLIVE TAPENADE

1/3 cup pitted kalamata olives

1/3 cup pitted Nicoise olives

1/3 cup pitted black olives

1 small clove garlic

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

ROASTED RED PEPPER

2 red bell peppers

ASSEMBLY

Oil

Parsley

All the ingredients can be prepared the day ahead, with the exception of grilling the polenta. All that’s left the day of the party is the assembly.

POLENTA

Bring water and salt to boil. Gradually whisk in cornmeal. Continue whisking until thickened, about 5 minutes.

Pour polenta into 13x9-inch baking pan sprayed with vegetable cooking spray. Cover with plastic wrap and place slightly smaller pan over plastic and press to flatten polenta. Chill at least 2 hours or overnight.

ROASTED EGGPLANT

Halve eggplant. Score flesh diagonally into 1-inch diamonds, being careful not to cut through to skin. Stuff garlic into slashes. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake at 400 degrees until browned, about 50 minutes. Cool.

Scoop out flesh and puree in blender or food processor. Chill.

OLIVE TAPENADE

Process kalamata olives, Nicoise olives, black olives, garlic and olive oil in food processor until well blended but not pureed. Chill.

ROASTED RED PEPPER

Roast red peppers over flame of gas burner or under broiler, rotating as necessary until skin is blackened. Put into bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rest 15 minutes. Peel off blackened skin. Cut into 1x1/4-inch pieces.

ASSEMBLY

Cut chilled polenta diagonally into 1-inch diamond shapes. Brush or spray with olive oil. Grill diamonds over high heat on grill pan or sear over high heat on lightly oiled skillet until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Turn and sear second side, about 2 minutes.

Remove to platter. Top each diamond with 3/4 teaspoon tapenade and 3/4 teaspoon eggplant puree. Place bell pepper strip on top. Garnish with parsley.

80 appetizers. Each appetizer:

19 calories; 82 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.08 gram fiber.

CILANTRO DIPPING SAUCE

Salt

Water

2 cups loosely packed cilantro leaves

1 bunch green onions, green parts only

1 cup loosely packed parsley

1 tablespoon grated ginger root

1 small clove garlic

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1/2 cup oil

This recipe was adapted from a recipe by Robert Danhi of the Southern California School of Culinary Arts. Serve with steamed or boiled shrimp.

Bring lightly salted water to boil. Dip cilantro in boiling water with slotted spoon for 1 to 2 seconds, then in bowl of ice water to refresh. Remove from ice water when cool, squeeze out excess water and roughly chop. Repeat with green onions and parsley.

Put cilantro, green onions and parsley in blender and add ginger, garlic, sesame seeds and 1/2 teaspoon salt and pulse to chop. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons water, if necessary, to aid in chopping of herbs.

Gradually drizzle in oil while blender is running. When it’s pureed, pour into serving bowl. Chill.

1 cup. Each 1-teaspoon serving:

22 calories; 25 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 0 carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.05 gram fiber.

PORCINI-CHICKEN LIVER PA^TE

1/2 ounce porcini mushrooms

Water

1 stalk celery, chopped

4 peppercorns

1 bay leaf

4 sprigs parsley

1 pound chicken livers

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1 small onion, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Port wine

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup heavy whipping cream

3 (4 1/2-ounce) boxes water crackers

Place dried mushrooms in bowl with hot water to cover.

Bring 4 cups water, celery, peppercorns, bay leaf and parsley to boil in saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add chicken livers and simmer 10 minutes more. Drain. Livers will be slightly pink inside. Discard celery and herbs. Set livers aside.

Drain mushrooms through strainer, reserving liquid.

Melt butter in skillet over medium heat. Add onions and saute until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and saute 1 minute. Add 1/4 cup Port, mushrooms and reserved liquid. Increase heat to high and cook until liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Stir in chicken livers and remove from heat.

Puree in food processor until smooth. Gradually add salt and cream with processor running. Add remaining 2 tablespoons Port and process until smooth. Chill at least 2 hours. Serve on crackers.

2 cups pa^te. Each 1-teaspoon serving with cracker:

35 calories; 81 mg sodium; 19 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

CURRIED SCALLOP AND MANGO SKEWERS

1 pound bay scallops

2 mangoes, peeled

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons curry powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

Juice of 3 limes

Vegetable cooking spray

Remove nerve (white piece on side) from scallops. Rinse and set aside in bowl.

Cut mangoes into 3/4-inch chunks.

Melt butter in medium skillet over medium heat. Add curry powder, salt and 2 tablespoons lime juice and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Pour over scallops, tossing well to incorporate.

Place scallops and mango chunks alternately on 4-inch wooden skewers. Grill over high heat on grill pan sprayed with cooking spray or sear over high heat on skillet sprayed with cooking spray, turning as each side browns, 1 to 2 minutes total. Sprinkle skewers with remaining lime juice.

50 skewers. Each skewer:

19 calories; 42 mg sodium; 4 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.07 gram fiber.

CHICKEN CHILI WITH ROASTED CORN

1 tablespoon oil

1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1 small onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 Anaheim chile, diced

1 jalapen~o, minced

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes in puree

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 ears corn, roasted or grilled, kernels removed

1 cup drained and rinsed canned black beans

3/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro

Corn chips

Heat large skillet over high heat and add oil. When oil is hot and smoking, add chicken, stirring until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Remove chicken from pan and set aside.

Add onion to skillet and cook over medium-high heat until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add Anaheim chile and jalapen~o and cook 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and chili powder and heat until bubbly, about 2 minutes. Add reserved chicken, corn and black beans and heat through, about 2 minutes. Fold in cilantro. (If making ahead, add beans and corn when reheating. Fold in cilantro just before serving.) Serve with corn chips.

30 servings. Each serving without corn chips:

41 calories; 51 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.34 gram fiber.

ENDIVE WITH ASPARAGUS AND PROSCIUTTO

6 ounces prosciutto, thinly sliced

6 ounces cream cheese, softened

1 cup sour cream

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons chopped shallots

3 heads Belgian endive

40 asparagus spears

Chop 1/3 prosciutto. Cut remaining prosciutto into 1/2-inch slices. Set aside.

Blend cream cheese, sour cream, salt, shallots and chopped prosciutto in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute. Pour into bowl and stir in half of sliced prosciutto. Refrigerate.

Separate leaves of endive. There should be 12 to 15 leaves per head. (Reserve inner core for another use.)

Cut 3 inches off tops of asparagus spears. (Reserve stems for another use.) Cook asparagus tips in boiling salted water 1 to 2 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon to bowl of ice water to refresh.

Place 1 asparagus tip in each endive leaf. Put dollop of cream cheese mixture on end. Garnish with remaining sliced prosciutto. Arrange on plate for serving.

40 appetizers. Each appetizer:

43 calories; 115 mg sodium; 9 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.47 gram fiber.

TWO-SIDED FOCACCIA

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

3/4 cup warm water

2 baking potatoes, cooked

2 teaspoons salt

2 to 3 cups bread flour

2/3 cup walnuts

3/4 cup loosely packed mint leaves

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons cornmeal

1/4 cup Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled

Freshly ground black pepper

Dissolve yeast in warm water in large mixing bowl. Put potatoes through ricer or food mill to make 3/4 cup. Stir 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and potatoes into mixing bowl with yeast. Add 2 cups flour and mix. Add more flour as needed to achieve soft, elastic dough. Knead on floured board until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Put in bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside in warm place to rise until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours.

Put walnuts, mint and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in blender or food processor. Slowly drizzle in 1/2 cup oil while processing. Process until walnuts are size of lentils. Set aside.

Punch down bread dough when doubled in size and place on cornmeal-covered bread stone or parchment-paper-lined baking sheet. Rub hands with olive oil, then spread out dough 1/2 inch thick. Make dimples in dough with fingers. Drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Spread 1/4 cup walnut pesto onto half of focaccia. (There will be about 1/2 cup pesto left.) Sprinkle Gorgonzola cheese and freshly ground black pepper on other half.

Bake at 450 degrees until bread is puffed and browned at edges, about 15 minutes.

50 servings. Each serving:

45 calories; 105 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

ROQUEFORT PUFFS

2 sheets frozen puff pastry

1/2 cup Roquefort cheese

1 egg, lightly beaten

Thaw puff pastry and unfold. Spread Roquefort on 1 sheet. Top with second sheet. Go over with rolling pin to even out cheese filling. Cover and chill 30 minutes. Remove from refrigerator and cut into 1-inch pieces.

Brush lightly beaten egg carefully on tops of squares with pastry brush or rub on with fingertip. Be careful not to let egg wash drip over edges or dough won’t rise completely.

Bake at 400 degrees until puffed and golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

100 puffs. Each puff:

19 calories; 34 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0 fiber.

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The liquid recipes, Drink, H11

Platters and bowls in photos this page , and the martini glasses, pitcher and serving dishes on the cover from Pottery Shack, Laguna Beach. Pine basket in focaccia photo from Bristol Farms, South Pasadena.