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An Island Feast

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Mandel's latest book is "Celebrating the Midwestern Table" (Doubleday & Co., 1996)

Cuban cooking brings to mind bright, tangy flavors and the tropical glamour of the Caribbean islands. Consider this Cuban-inspired menu for a great casual summer meal.

Lime is the constant in all the dishes, a perfect foil for the summer heat. Spicy sauteed soft-shell crabs are crisped in the oven and served on a bed of flavorful rice. Squeezing lime juice over the crabs brings the two elements of this dish together. For dessert, easy-to-make lime custard tartlets are topped with raspberries.

Start off with a mound of fried plantains--a large, firm variety of the banana. Cut the plantains into thin diagonal slices, fry quickly in 2 inches of vegetable oil and drain on paper towels until cool.

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ISLAND RICE

Achiote is sold in most Latino and Filipino markets. The rice is a great base for grilled, broiled or pan-fried fish and shellfish.

ACHIOTE OIL

2 tablespoons oil

1/4 teaspoon achiote seeds or ground achiote

RICE

1 cup basmati rice

1 small onion, chopped, about 3/4 cup

1 green bell pepper, diced

1/8 teaspoon allspice

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth, hot

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions

1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons lime juice

OIL

Heat oil with 1/4 teaspoon achiote seeds in small skillet over medium-high heat until oil turns red, 2 to 3 minutes. (Note: Be careful that oil doesn’t burn.) Strain and discard seeds.

RICE

Heat Achiote Oil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add rice, onion, bell pepper, allspice, thyme, salt and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring often, until rice starts to stick, about 3 minutes.

Stir in hot broth and bring to boil. Simmer, covered, over low heat until liquid is absorbed and rice almost tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest covered, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in green onions, cilantro and lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Serve hot.

4 servings. Each serving:

269 calories; 816 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.06 grams fiber.

SPICY SOFT-SHELL CRABS

Serve these crabs over Island Rice. Crisping them in a hot oven instead of in the skillet significantly reduces the fat typically used. Increase or decrease the cayenne pepper, depending on how spicy you want them to be.

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8 soft-shell crabs, cleaned

3/4 cup flour

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or more if needed

3/4 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

4 teaspoons oil

4 teaspoons butter

8 lime wedges

Rinse crabs under cold water. Shake off water, but do not blot dry. Set aside on work surface.

Combine flour, cayenne, thyme and salt in pie plate or shallow bowl. Coat crabs with flour mixture, shaking off excess.

Heat 2 teaspoons oil and 2 teaspoons butter in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, put 4 crabs in skillet, rounded side down. Fry until lightly browned on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer crabs to baking sheet in single layer, rounded side up. Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil and 2 teaspoons butter to skillet. When very hot, fry remaining crabs.

Bake at 425 degrees until crabs are sizzling and crisp, about 5 minutes. Serve hot. Garnish plate with lime wedges and squeeze lime juice over crabs if desired.

4 servings. Each serving:

272 calories; 1,323 mg sodium; 116 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 27 grams protein; 0.13 gram fiber.

LIME CUSTARD TARTLETS WITH RASPBERRIES

Frozen mini filo dough shells from the supermarket make this dessert quick and easy to prepare. Blueberries or sliced strawberries can be substituted for the raspberries.

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1/2 teaspoon minced lime peel

1/3 cup sugar

1 egg

2 tablespoons butter, melted

1 tablespoon light sour cream

1/4 cup lime juice

16 frozen mini filo dough shells

48 raspberries

Beat lime peel, sugar and egg with electric mixer until light colored and flowing, about 1 minute. Add butter, sour cream and lime juice. Mix well.

Put frozen shells in single layer on baking sheet. Fill each shell with about 2 teaspoons custard mixture.

Bake at 375 degrees until custard has thickened and very lightly browned, about 12 minutes. Let cool completely. (Note: Tartlets can be made several hours ahead and kept at room temperature.)

Place 3 raspberries, rounded end up, on each tartlet.

4 servings. Each serving:

291 calories; 194 mg sodium; 69 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.92 gram fiber.

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CHEF’S TIP

Soft-shell crabs are in season from April to mid-September, peaking in June and July. Have the crabs prepared and cleaned for cooking where you buy them so you just need to rinse them before cooking. Use them the same day you buy them and keep them refrigerated until just before cooking.

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