Pumpkin Without Pie

I find it surprising that pumpkin pie, the classic finale of Thanksgiving dinners, is so atypical of American desserts. Except for cinnamon, spices are uncommon in our sweets. Pumpkin pie, however, is fortified with a mixture of spices that might include nutmeg, ginger, cloves, cinnamon and allspice.

The spices are so central to this traditional dessert that pumpkin pie spice can be purchased as a mix. There are different blends, and I found one that, in addition to the familiar spices, included such exotic ones as cardamom and Chinese five-spice.

When it comes to the versatility of pumpkin pie spice, desserts are only half the story. Pumpkin pie spice is an excellent choice for flavoring casseroles and vegetable stews containing pumpkin or winter squash.

Pumpkins and other hard-shelled squashes can be used interchangeably in recipes. But don’t try to cook huge ones. Smaller sugar pumpkins and winter squashes have a much better flavor.

SPICED PUMPKIN STEW

2 pounds sugar pumpkin or winter squash such as banana squash

2 tablespoons oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 large cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

2/3 cup water

1 tablespoon sugar

Salt

Serve this casserole with roast turkey or as a vegetarian entree with rice or couscous. If you don’t have pumpkin pie spice, substitute 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon ginger and a dash of ground cloves.

Peel squash, remove seeds and strings and cut meat into 1-inch pieces.

Heat oil in large skillet. Add onion and saute over medium heat until it begins to turn golden, about 7 minutes.

Add squash, garlic, pepper, pumpkin pie spice, water, sugar and salt to taste. Bring to simmer, cover and cook over low heat, gently stirring occasionally, until squash is tender, about 30 minutes. If sauce is too thin, uncover and cook 2 to 3 minutes until thickened. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot.

3 or 4 servings. Each of 4 servings:

145 calories; 78 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 2.75 grams fiber.