In The Mood / A Few Good Burgers

Remember when going out for a celebratory dinner usually meant steak? Steakhouses are some of our longest-lived restaurants in Los Angeles--and even the newer ones can draw a loyal crowd. All prices given are dinner prices.

* Taylor’s Prime Steaks: This 40-year-old Mid-Wilshire steakhouse, which recently spawned a spinoff in La Canada Flintridge, features prime steaks at regular people’s prices, including a delicious specialty cut called a “culotte”--only two per cow. (Steaks, $10.95 to $19.95). Taylor’s Prime Steaks, 3361 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 382-8449; 901 Foothill Blvd., La Can~ada Flintridge, (818) 790-7668.

* Ruth’s Chris Steak House: Part of a New Orleans-based chain, this Beverly Hills steakhouse is particularly elegant. Steaks come to the table sizzling in butter. Most popular cut? A beautiful T-bone. (Steaks, $18.95 to $29.95, $55 for double Porterhouse). Ruth’s Chris Steak House, 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 859-8744.

* Damon’s Steak House: A chronically busy 60-year-old Glendale institution with amusing, if arbitrary, Polynesian decor and such generous portions there isn’t any dessert on the menu. The biggest seller is a choice tenderloin; we also recommend the petite filet. (Steaks, $11.25 to $13.75). Damon’s Steak House, 317 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 507-1510.

* Dal Rae: The gloriously anachronistic Dal Rae shoots us back to the time when going out for steak was the apex of fine dining. They serve prime New York/tenderloin steaks, of which the pepper steak blanketed in onion, peppercorns and bacon, is the great favorite. (Steaks, $18.50-$28.50) Dal Rae, 9023 E. Washington Blvd., Pico Rivera, (562) 949-2444.

* Petrelli’s: Petrelli himself butchers and ages his beef at this bustling Culver City steakhouse, where entrees come with green salad, vegetable, beef noodle soup, baked potato, bread and butter and coffee. The six steaks are equally popular among loyal customers; we recommend the 28-ounce, $24 New York. (Steak dinners from, $16.95 to $24.95). Petrelli’s, 5615 S. Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, (310) 397-1438.

* 555 East: A handsome Long Beach steakhouse, 555 East serves prime, Midwestern corn-fed beef (except for the popular filet, which is choice). We recommend the fabulous Kansas City strip (charred rare, if you please) and a meaty T-bone. (Steaks, $16.95-$28.95; $48.95 for a double Porterhouse). 555 East, 555 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, (562) 437-0626.

* The Palm: The West Hollywood branch of a New York steak and chop house, the Palm offers a handful of pricey aged prime steaks, of which we preferred the 34-ounce New York strip steak for two. (Steaks, $29; $58 for double steaks). The Palm, 9001 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 550-8811.

* Monty’s Steakhouse: With three locations, Monty’s has established itself in the Southland as a dark, classic steakhouse with serious bars and five steaks; some cuts are prime, some choice. All sell equally well, but we recommend the New Yorks and filets--and for those who can’t decide, there’s the Porterhouse. All steaks come in two sizes: the middle weight (8-12 ounces, depending on the cut) and the heavy weight (22-25 ounces). (Steaks, $17.95-$25.95). Monty’s Steakhouse, 1100 Glendon Ave., Westwood, (310) 208-8787; 592 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, (626) 792-7776; 5371 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, (818) 716-9736.