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The Inverted Pyramid

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES; Levy is the author of "30 Low-Fat Vegetarian Meals in 30 Minutes" (Warner Books, 1997)

When my husband and I decided to lose weight several months ago, we created a weight-loss pyramid for ourselves. In one of my cookbooks, I had modified the U.S. Department of Agriculture Food Guide Pyramid to suit a vegetarian diet, and we tinkered with that for the weight-loss pyramid.

Basically, we turned the bottom layers of the pyramid upside down and made vegetables the foundation of our weight-loss pyramid instead of grains, pasta and bread. Furthermore, we made two rows of vegetables. The bottom row contains vegetables that are so low in calories that we can eat as much of them as we want. It includes cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant, spinach, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage.

The row above it contains such higher-calorie vegetables as potatoes, carrots, beets, green peas and winter squash. For the first couple of weeks of our diet, we ate only foods from these two rows, that is, only vegetables. This was a very low-calorie vegetarian regimen, and we had to eat often in order not to be hungry.

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Next we added more foods from Row No. 3 of our newly designed pyramid: beans, grains and breads, fat-free dairy products and fruits.

And, finally, we learned to fit exercise into our daily routine.

After two more months, we began occasionally eating foods from what became Row No. 4: small portions of fish, chicken, turkey, lean meat and eggs. Following the USDA Food Guide, we placed fats and sweets at the tip of our pyramid and used them very sparingly.

In our quest for the best ingredients to include in our diet, we searched for foods that had the greatest nutritional value for their calories so that we would be satisfied naturally and less tempted to eat less healthful foods.

The food had to be tasty and filling because we wanted to develop a formula for eating not just for weight loss but for weight maintenance as well. And in addition to being nutritious, the recipes had to be quick and easy.

Now we eat vegetables at every meal and always in several forms--as big salads, as soups and as stews. We shop at farmers markets and ethnic produce markets often. We buy large quantities of the best vegetables and fruits, from Persian cucumbers to Chinese eggplants, Korean melons and fresh yellow dates.

Our joy in eating and cooking is no less than during the six years I was studying classic cuisine in Paris, feasting on every possible variation of French butter sauces.

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BUTTERNUT SQUASH IN RAISIN SAUCE (IT’S A SNAP)

When I’m browning onions, I use vegetable broth the same way I would use oil. I heat a tablespoon or two of broth in the pan and then add the onions. When the pan looks dry and the edges of the onions are beginning to turn golden, I add another tablespoon or two of broth. The natural sugars in the onions caramelize, and they acquire a kind of sauteed taste that recalls the flavor they get when being browned in oil. Watch the pan carefully because the onions can burn easily. A good accompaniment to the squash is brown or white rice, couscous or cooked bulgur wheat.

2 pounds butternut or other winter squash

1 cup vegetable broth

1 large onion, chopped

1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes, drained and chopped

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/3 cup dark raisins

1 or 2 tablespoons strained lemon juice

Cut off squash peel, remove seeds and strings and cut meat in 1-inch pieces.

Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable broth in large heavy skillet. Add onion and saute over medium heat, stirring often. Gradually add 2 to 3 tablespoons more broth to prevent burning and cook until onions are golden, about 7 minutes.

Add tomatoes and cook, uncovered, 2 minutes. Add squash, remaining broth and salt and pepper to taste. Stir and bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes. Add raisins and lemon juice and cook until squash and raisins are tender, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot.

3 or 4 servings. Each of 4 servings:

186 calories; 351 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 4.29 grams fiber.

LOW-FAT CARROT VELOUTE SOUP

1 pound carrots, scraped

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can vegetable broth (1 3/4 cups)

1/4 cup water

2 tablespoons uncooked white rice

2 tablespoons dried minced onion

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

Pinch sugar

1 1/2 cups nonfat milk

1 tablespoon thinly sliced or snipped chives

Quarter carrots lengthwise, then cut in 1/2-inch pieces.

Combine carrots, broth, water, rice, onion, salt and pepper to taste, thyme, bay leaf and sugar in heavy medium saucepan. Cover and bring to boil. Simmer, covered, over low heat until carrots and rice are tender, about 15 minutes. Discard bay leaf.

Transfer carrots and rice to blender or food processor with slotted spoon. Reserve cooking liquid. Puree carrots and rice.

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Slowly pour cooking liquid into blender with machine running and puree until very smooth.

Return to saucepan and bring to boil, stirring constantly. Add milk and bring to simmer, stirring constantly. Taste and adjust seasoning. Ladle hot soup into heated bowls and garnish with chives.

4 servings. Each serving:

115 calories; 601 mg sodium; 2 mg cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.15 grams fiber.

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