In The Mood / Meatloaf

There’s nothing like meatloaf for stick-to-your-ribs satisfaction--so here are a few good versions. Prices are for dinners, unless otherwise noted.

* 72 Market Street: This famous and heavenly meatloaf is steamed in cheesecloth and served with a heady clove-scented gravy, mashed potatoes and sauteed garlic spinach. (Meatloaf, $16). 72 Market Street, 72 Market St., Venice, 310-392-8720.

* Kate Mantilini: Chef David Lewis makes a profoundly tasty meatloaf using freshly ground beef and pork, a very fine bread crumb and a tomato topping that is wonderfully sticky and flavorful and naturally sweet. The meatloaf dinner comes with mashed potatoes and kale. There are also meatloaf sandwiches. (Meatloaf dinner, $14; sandwiches, $7.95.) Kate Mantilini, 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 278-3699.

* The Grill: Count on The Grill for the quintessential version of a classic. The all-beef loaf comes with gravy and mashed potatoes. (Meatloaf, $16.50.) The Grill on the Alley, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-0615.

* Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop: Meatloaf is a house specialty at this popular neighborhood diner. During the day, you can get marinara-topped meatloaf with mashed potatoes and vegetable or a sandwich on an Italian roll. After 6 p.m., there’s a larger, more traditional meatloaf dinner with mashed potatoes, gravy and vegetable. (Meatloaf at lunch, plate or sandwich, $8.95; meatloaf dinner, $10.97.) Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop/Cafe, 6145 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, (213) 467-7678.

* Jake & Annie’s: Homemade turkey meatloaf here comes with Yukon gold mashed potatoes, gravy and buttered peas. At lunch, the turkey meatloaf sandwich is served with onion rings and homemade catsup. (Meatloaf dinner, $11.95; meatloaf sandwich, $8.95.) Jake & Annie’s, 2700 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 452-1734.

* Beadles Cafeteria: Some of us grew up eating Beadles’ all-beef meatloaf, and feel we’re the better for it. This classic cafeteria loaf, with roasted potatoes and a mushroom gravy, is run as a special every Thursday and on alternate Saturdays. (Meatloaf with potatoes and gravy, $3.65; add a vegetable $4.30.) Beadles Cafeteria, 825 E. Green St., Pasadena, (626) 796-3618.

* Cadillac Cafe: Try the Cadillac Burnt Meatloaf Marinara--a good, traditional meatloaf with a nicely charred crust, marinara sauce, garlic mashed potatoes and a vegetable skewer. (Meatloaf, $10; sandwich, $6.95.) Cadillac Cafe, 359 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 657-6591.

* red: Executive chef Mary Cleary makes a wonderfully moist, peppery, classic beef and pork meatloaf with a great crusty brown top. (Meatloaf, $10.95). red, 7450 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, (213) 937-0331; 101 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 260-1100.