Cooking a New Game

Empty Saddle: Josie Le Balch, the chef who loved to play with game at Saddle Peak Lodge, has left the Calabasas hideaway and is consulting with Liza Hutter, Jean Francois Meteigner’s former partner in La Cachette, on a beach-food restaurant to open on Pacific Coast Highway. Replacing her is former sous-chef Gael Lecolley, whom Le Balch had been grooming for the executive spot since the French-trained chef was hired last April. Lecolley will keep some of Le Balch’s dishes, but he’ll also be putting his own stamp on game cookery. Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas; (818) 222-3888.

A Boat-Full of Puns: Why is that new restaurant in the Beverly Center called Le Bateau (the boat)? Chef Minoru Ushikoshi says he wants to take you on a “cruise of international cuisine.” Le Bateau is meant to be a “flagship” restaurant with more to follow in the U.S. Now that we’ve gotten that out of the way, chef Mino has been chef at a famous French restaurant in Tokyo and personal chef to the emperor of Japan. His menu ranges from French sauteed duck breast to a spicy Korean seafood salad. Le Bateau is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center, across the street from Hotel Sofitel. Le Bateau, 8530 Beverly Blvd., No. 151, Beverly Hills; (310) 854-1115.

Invasion of the Chinese Chicken Salad: Bob Mandler is opening his eighth Chin-Chin at the site of the old Larry Parker’s. The new space is bright and open, with an exhibition kitchen, counter bar and plum-colored leather booths. Chin-Chin, 206 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 786-8860.

Antonio’s Turns 30: Antonio’s is celebrating its 30th anniversary with two menu specials: pollo en salsa verde de Vera Cruz and pollo en mole Tabasco, available at lunch or dinner Friday-Sunday. The classic blue corn and chicken tamales will be available for $1 off the menu price during the same three days. Antonio’s, 7470 Melrose Ave., L.A.; (213) 655-0480.

Remembering Lost Firemen: Maui Beach Cafe is hosting a special memorial benefit dinner in conjunction with Fire Station No. 37 on Sunday to honor the four L.A. firefighters who lost their lives in March. The donation is a minimum of $50 per person, $25 for those ages 8-17, and free for children 7 and under. There will be a Hawaiian buffet and live Hawaiian music. Proceeds will benefit the families of the firefighters through the Los Angeles Fireman’s Relief Assn. Widows and Orphans Fund. The event is from 4 to 10 p.m. Maui Beach Cafe, 1019 Westwood Blvd., L.A.; (310) 209-0494.

A Buddha in New York: The people who opened Barfly on Sunset with chef Kazuto Matsusaka plan to roll out another Paris-based chain restaurant with Matsusaka called Buddha-Bar. And you may have heard that the first Buddha-Bar location in the U.S. would be in San Francisco. Beep, wrong; those plans are on hold. Meanwhile, a location is being scouted in L.A. and one has already been found in the SoHo district of New York . . . only the New York location won’t be called Buddha-Bar, because there’s already a restaurant of that name in the Big Apple. (Still, we are assured that, except in name, the Gotham operation will be a full two-story Buddha-Bar.)

Don’t Pass Over Jerry’s: Jerry’s Famous Deli is serving a special Passover dinner April 11-18 in all eight locations. The dinner includes an appetizer, egg noodle or matzo ball soup, beef brisket or roasted chicken entree, matzo kugel, steamed vegetables, matzos, fruit compote or macaroon, and a glass of Concord wine for $18.75 per person. Jerry’s Famous Deli, Studio City, (818) 980-4245, West Hollywood, (310) 289-1811; Pasadena, (626) 440-1177; Encino, (818) 906-1800; Woodland Hills, (818) 340-0810; Marina del Rey, (310) 821-6626; Westwood, (310) 208-3354; and Costa Mesa, (714) 662-3354.

Still Got Turducken: Royce’s Cafe Orleans in West L.A. is offering turducken for the Easter season (Sunday-April 12) at the restaurant or to take home. If you don’t know from turducken, it’s Paul Prudhomme’s creation of a chicken stuffed inside a duck stuffed inside a turkey. It involves no bones, and three kinds of dressing. Royce’s Cafe Orleans, 10916 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A.; (310) 441-7427.