The Tempting Morsel

The term hors d’oeuvre originally meant “nonessential,” on the side, apart from work--in other words, indulgent, frivolous and fun. And, indeed, hors d’oeuvres are a kind of gustatory holiday from the regimen of three squares a day. We expect them to be luscious, if not completely sinful. A rich cheese, a satisfying crunch, an explosion of spices. The well-made hors d’oeuvre delivers big pleasure in a small package--no more than one or two bites. Hors d’oeuvres are a tease, a mere taste of something exquisite. What kissing is to lovemaking, hors d’oeuvres are to dinner.

So why not prolong the moment? Why not extend the state of anticipation indefinitely? After all, a kiss is sometimes all we want and need. Why not throw a party and serve nothing but fabulous hors d’oeuvres, finger foods beguiling in their miniature scale, intense in flavor and varied enough to entice you to sample one of every kind?

To this end, we asked six professional caterers to share a few of their most festive hors d’oeuvre recipes and holiday potions. The recipes they provided are characterized by bold flavors, eye-catching good looks and a multiethnic flair.

If you don’t mind some quick, last-minute grilling before the party starts--and some of us like to stay busy to allay the pre-party jitters--Mary Micucci of the Los Angeles catering firm Along Came Mary! suggests Asian chicken skewers with two spirited salsas. The chicken can marinate overnight, or at least three hours, in the refrigerator. The papaya and tomatillo-ginger salsas, however, must be made the day they’re served. Once threaded onto skewers, the chicken cooks quickly--on a grill or grill pan, the full recipe of 16 skewers shouldn’t take more than 10 minutes. It’s well worth any eleventh-hour frenzy.

Another hot hors d’oeuvre that should be served as soon as possible after a quick turn in the frying pan is Tom Byrne’s easy and addictive sauteed ginger-orange marinated shrimp. Byrne, who runs La Cuisine Catering Co. in Los Angeles, originally used the simple soy-based, garlic- and orange-spiked marinade for duck. “Then we needed an Asian-style shrimp hors d’oeuvre, and it worked beautifully,” he says. “I’ve since used the same marinade on swordfish.”

Andrea Bell of L.A. Celebrations! in Los Angeles prefers hors d’oeuvres that can be made well in advance. In fact, she says, “I have one rule for holiday entertainment: Never leave anything to the last minute if you can do it in advance.” Her festive red and green canapes are meant to be prepared in the morning, stored in the fridge and brought to room temperature, or they can be heated in the microwave. “This is a useful holiday recipe,” she says. “It’s colorful and vegetarian--and everybody loves eggplant.”

A lot of people bake cookies for the holidays, but if we follow Jeff McLean’s lead, we’ll be making crackers. The chef at Market Catering & Event Planning in Redondo Beach, McLean suggests a crisp rosemary bread topped with grilled pears and Gorgonzola. “I’m constantly looking for interesting and new recipes that are full of flavor and texture--and then I reduce them to one bite,” he says. “These are a great little holiday hors d’oeuvre that works all year as well.” The crackers themselves, rolled from a buttery yeast dough flavored with sauteed shallots and rosemary, can be prepared and stored two or three days ahead. The same goes for the grilled pear slices and the Gorgonzola-cream cheese mixture. Just bring everything to room temperature before assembling. And if you have no time to make your own crackers, Byrne says, you can always substitute gourmet crackers or toast slices of a rosemary baguette.

Gai Klass of the Culver City catering firm bearing her name manages to take Thanksgiving and distill it to a bite--or two. Her mini cranberry-encrusted muffins become tiny sandwiches with shaved turkey and a sweet chutney that evokes all the best aspects of mincemeat--apple, dried fruits and brandy. Klass suggests serving these cunning little canapes on trays draped with strung cranberries and big mugs of wassail, the spicy and very comforting hot Scandinavian punch that can be prepared with or without alcohol.

Another amazing hors d’oeuvre comes from Susan Campoy of Julienne Fine Food and Celebrations in San Marino. The chipotle barbecued pork on yam crisps with a dollop of seasoned creme fra 5/8che is one of the company’s most popular items. “It’s great with drinks,” says Kathy deKarr, Julienne’s catering manager. “You’ve got some really big flavors at work: the spicy meat with the creamy counterpoint and the crisp yam.” The recipe looks a bit daunting, but deKarr assures us: “It’s not hard. You can make three components ahead and assemble it before the party starts. You can even freeze the meat mixture.” As a shortcut, or a variation, small snack-sized tortillas can be substituted for the yam crisps. If tortillas are used, garnish with guacamole and/or a bit of cotija cheese--though that may be gilding the lily. Chicken or duck can be substituted for pork.

Julienne’s grapefruit and cranberry juice cocktail is not only color-appropriate for the season, it’s also “quite drinkable,” says deKarr with a knowing laugh. Serve this tart, vodka-optional beverage from a pitcher or, better yet, a punch bowl with whole cranberries and thin slices of lime drifting on top.

Hors d’oeuvres may be incidental, frivolous, mere mouthfuls of pure indulgence, but given a good supply and a pleasing variety, dinner seems not only stodgy but downright unnecessary.

Holiday hors d’oeuvres and drinks

Asian Chicken Skewers with Two Salsas

Mini Cranberry Muffins with Roasted Turkey

Ginger-Orange Marinated Shrimp

Rosemary Cracker Bread with Grilled Pears and Creamy Gorgonzola

Chipotle Barbecued Pork on Yam Crisps with Spicy Creme Fraiche

Festive Red and Green Canapes

Wassail

Noel Ruby Red Cocktail

Asian Chicken Skewers With Two Salsas From Along Came Mary!, Los Angeles

Makes 16

*

1 pound chicken tenderloins

Marinade

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon ginger, grated

1 teaspoon garlic, minced

1/4 cup sweet mirin (sweet rice wine) or sherry

2 tablespoons sesame oil

16 6-inch bamboo skewers

Papaya salsa

1 medium papaya, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 green onions, finely chopped

1/2 red pepper, seeded, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 medium serrano chile, seeded and minced

3 sprigs cilantro, finely chopped

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Tomatillo-ginger salsa

1/4 pound tomatillos, cut into 1/4-inch dice

4 ounces jicama, peeled and cut into fine dice

2 small serrano chiles, seeded and minced

3 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon pickled ginger, minced (the kind used with sushi)

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar

Chicken

Soak bamboo skewers overnight.

Combine all marinade ingredients in bowl. Transfer marinade into Ziploc bag, then add chicken tenderloins and refrigerate at least 3 hours. Turn bag occasionally to ensure chicken is evenly marinated. Remove chicken from refrigerator at least 1 hour before cooking.

Skewer each tenderloin so that chicken lies as flat as possible. If tenderloin is too large for one skewer, cut in half on diagonal.

Grill chicken over charcoal grill partly covered with aluminum foil to prevent skewers from burning. If grill is not available, use griddle. Cook each side 2 to 21/2 minutes or until just done. Serve with salsas.

Papaya salsa

Mix all papaya salsa ingredients in medium bowl, adding salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate 30 minutes before serving. Serve chilled and on same day salsa is prepared, as it does not keep well. Makes 2 cups.

Tomatillo-ginger salsa

After removing their husks, rinse tomatillos and dice them. Mix tomatillos and remaining salsa ingredients in medium bowl. Refrigerate 30 minutes before serving. Serve chilled and on same day salsa is prepared, as it does not keep well. For sweeter salsa, add 1/2 to 1 teaspoon light brown sugar. Makes 2 cups.

Mini Cranberry Muffins With Roasted Turkey

From Gai Klass, Culver City

Makes 50

*

Muffins

2 cups all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 eggs

3/4 cup milk

1/4 cup butter, melted

1 cup fresh cranberries, chopped

2 tablespoons orange rind, grated

1 pound roasted turkey breast, shaved

Orange slices, fresh cranberries and fresh sage for garnish

Chutney

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1/4 cup dried apricots, chopped

3 pitted prunes, chopped

2 tablespoons golden raisins

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and finely chopped

1/2 cup fresh cranberries

2 tablespoons brandy

Muffins

Sift together dry ingredients. Beat eggs with milk and melted butter. Add cranberries and orange rind to dry ingredients.

Quickly stir milk and egg mixture into dry ingredients, being careful not to overmix. Batter should still have a few bits of flour and be a little lumpy.

Spoon batter into well-greased mini muffin tins (11/4- inch bottom diameter). Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool.

Dissolve sugars in 1/2 cup water in heavy skillet over medium heat. Add apricots, prunes and raisins. Cook 4 to 5 minutes.

Add apple and cook until tender. Add cranberries and cook until they begin to split. Remove from heat and add brandy. Let cool.

To assemble

Cut muffins in half. Spread 1/2 teaspoon chutney on each half. Place 1/4 ounce shaved turkey on bottom of muffin. Replace top of muffin. (Muffins may be made up to 6 hours ahead. Cover with damp paper towel until served.) Arrange on tray and garnish with orange slices, fresh cranberries and sprigs of fresh sage.

*

Ginger-Orange Marinated Shrimp

From La Cuisine Catering Co., Los Angeles

Makes 24

*

24 large raw shrimp (16-to-20 or 21-to-25 count), peeled, deveined, tail on

2 tablespoons fresh ginger, chopped

2 tablespoons garlic, chopped

Zest of 1 orange, grated

Juice of 1 orange

1/2 cup soy sauce

1/2 cup toasted sesame oil

Watercress and orange slices for garnish

*

Mix all ingredients in nonreactive bowl and marinate shrimp 20 minutes before serving. Do not marinate longer because ginger and soy sauce will overtenderize shrimp.

Heat medium-size nonstick saute pan over high heat. Add few drops of sesame oil. Shake excess marinade from shrimp and saute six to seven shrimp at a time, about 2 minutes on each side.

Transfer cooked shrimp to serving tray or steamer basket lined with bed of watercress and orange slices.

Garnish with watercress. Serve immediately.

*

Rosemary Cracker Bread

With Grilled Pears and Creamy Gorgonzola

From Market Catering & Event

Planning, Redondo Beach

Makes about 40

Cracker bread

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon sugar

4 tablespoons butter, cold

1 egg, beaten into 1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon rosemary, coarsely chopped

Pears

2 D’anjou pears

1/4 cup fruity olive oil

Salt and pepper

Cream cheese

4 ounces good quality Gorgonzola or Roquefort cheese

2 ounces cream cheese

Cracker bread

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Heat small skillet over medium-high heat and add olive oil and shallots. Reduce heat to medium and cook shallots about 10 minutes, or until sugar in shallots caramelizes and they soften. Let cool.

Mix flour, salt, baking powder and sugar until well blended in large bowl. With fingertips, rub butter quickly into flour mixture until it resembles cornmeal. Add half of egg-milk mixture to flour-butter mixture, using fork. Add remaining egg-milk mixture, stirring quickly with fork.

On floured surface, knead cooled shallots and rosemary into dough. Let dough rest 1 hour. With floured rolling pin, roll dough until 1/16th of an inch thick. Sprinkle flour on surface to keep dough from sticking.

Cut out round, square, diamond-shaped or rectangular crackers no larger than 2 1/2 inches across and place them on buttered cookie sheet. Let crackers rest 5 minutes, then prick them several times with fork.

Bake crackers 5 to 6 minutes on one side. Turn them and bake 5 more minutes, or until golden brown and crisp. Be careful not to burn. Let cool. Crackers may be stored in airtight container 2 to 3 days.

Pears

Heat stovetop or outdoor grill. Quarter and core pears, then slice each quarter into 4 to 5 wedges. Toss pear slices with olive oil, salt and pepper to taste. Grill pear slices 2 to 3 minutes per side, just to soften and create grill marks. Pear slices may be refrigerated in airtight container 2 to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Cream cheese

Crumble Gorgonzola cheese into medium bowl and, with fork, blend in cream cheese until mixture is smooth. Serve at room temperature.*

To assemble

Spread spoonful of creamed cheese on each cracker and top with decoratively folded or shaped pear slice. Serve.

*Note: A good store-bought cracker may be substituted for homemade rosemary cracker bread.

Chipotle Barbecued Pork on Yam Crisps

With Spicy Creme Fraiche

From Julienne Fine Foods and Celebrations, San Marino

Makes 36

*

Chipotle barbecue sauce

6 tablespoons chili sauce, such as Heinz brand

1/4 cup molasses

11/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/2 tablespoon dark brown sugar

2 cloves garlic, crushed

11/2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 cup water or chicken stock

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1/4 jalapeno pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4 -inch dice

1/4 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4 -inch dice

1-2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce (available canned at most supermarkets)

8 ounces creme fraiche

11/2 tablespoons garlic, minced

Coarsely ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup cilantro, minced

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt to taste

*

Yam crisps

2 yams, thinly sliced and cut into 36 2-inch rounds with cookie cutter

Oil for frying

Cilantro leaves for garnish

4- to 5-pound pork butt, seasoned with salt and pepper

2 bunches green onions, sliced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Fry yam rounds in oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels, salt lightly and let cool. Rounds may be made day ahead and stored in airtight container.

In preheated 425-degree oven, place seasoned pork butt on cookie sheet, cover with foil and roast 2 hours, or until fork tender. Let cool. Shred half of pork, reserving other half for another use. Set aside.

Saute green onions in vegetable oil 5 minutes, or until soft. Combine with pork. Add enough chipotle barbecue sauce to moisten. Set aside. Pork mixture may be made day ahead and reheated.

Chipotle barbecue sauce

Combine all ingredients in heavy saucepan and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat and puree in food processor or with immersion blender. Set aside. Sauce will keep refrigerated for 1 week. Makes 2 cups.

Creme fraiche

Combine all ingredients and mix well. Refrigerate until half-hour before serving.

To assemble

Top each yam round with small amount of pork mixture and dollop of creme fraiche. Garnish with cilantro leaf. Serve.

Note: Roasted chicken or duck may be substituted for pork.

*

Festive Red and Green Canapes

From L.A. Celebrations!, Los Angeles

Makes 40

8 small Japanese eggplants

Salt and pepper

Herb-infused extra-virgin olive oil

Cheese mixture

1/2 stick sweet butter, softened

3 cloves shallots, minced

1/4 cup garlic chives, snipped (available at Asian markets), or 1/4 cup chives plus 1 clove garlic, minced

8 ounces herbed goat cheese

Salt and pepper

2 yellow peppers

4 red peppers

40 basil leaves

40 chives, blanched for 10 seconds

*

Cut eggplants lengthwise into thin slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brush lightly with olive oil on both sides. Grill or broil, turning as each side browns and softens. Set aside.

*

Cheese mixture

Blend butter, shallots and garlic chives in food processor. Add goat cheese and mix just until combined. Salt and pepper to taste.

*

Roast peppers in 450-degree oven for 15 minutes. Spray or grease skin of peppers with oil. Place cooked roasted peppers in plastic bag to cool. When cool, peel skins. Seed and core peppers. Cut both yellow peppers into 20 thin strips. Cut all red peppers into 10 slightly wider strips.

Spread each eggplant slice with about 2 teaspoons of cheese mixture. Lay yellow pepper strip lengthwise on top of cheese mixture. Roll eggplant slice three-quarters of the way, then place basil leaf across cheese mixture. Finish rolling. Basil leaf should stick out from top of rolled canape. Roll red pepper strip around perimeter of canape. Tie blanched chive around red pepper strip. Snip excess chive. Repeat for all eggplant slices.

Canapes may be prepared in the morning and chilled. Remove from refrigerator 1 hour before serving. Or they may be served warm. Microwave 30 seconds before serving.

Note: To make herb-infused olive oil, add 1/2 cup fresh herbs (thyme, rosemary and oregano work well) to 2 cups oil. Let sit at room temperature or covered in refrigerator for few hours.

*

Wassail, Makes 10 to 12 servings

From Gai Klass, Culver City

*

8 cups apple cider

1 cup dark brown sugar

1 cup dark rum

1/2 cup brandy

2 tablespoons Grand Marnier

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground clove

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Salt to taste

1 lemon, thinly sliced

1 orange, thinly sliced

*

Grand Marnier-flavored whipped cream

1 cup whipping cream

1 ounce Grand Marnier

Freshly grated nutmeg

Mix apple cider and brown sugar in saucepan and heat until sugar dissolves. Stir in rum, brandy and Grand Marnier. Stir in spices and lemon and orange slices.

Simmer wassail over medium heat 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Do not boil.

Whisk cream and Grand Marnier together in bowl until stiff peaks form.

Serve wassail warm in wine glasses topped with Grand Marnier-flavored whipped cream and freshly grated nutmeg.

Note: This recipe may be prepared without rum, brandy and Grand Marnier.

*

Noel Ruby Red Cocktail

From Julienne Fine Foods and Celebrations, San Marino

Makes 8 servings

*

8 ounces vodka

5 1/2 cups Ocean Spray Ruby Red grapefruit juice

4 cups cranberry juice

Juice of 8 fresh limes (or 3/4 cup)

Combine all ingredients in large pitcher, stirring well. Pour into 8 tall glasses filled with ice. Serve.

Note: This recipe may be prepared without vodka.

Prop stylist: Ann Johnstad; food stylist: Christine Anthony-Masterson; production coordinator: Emily Young.