Rice Pudding

Rice pudding can be found in the classic version or in fancy variations dreamed up by imaginative chefs.

* Lula Cocina Mexicana: You get choices with the pudding served at this restaurant, where it goes by its Mexican name, arroz con leche: hot or cold and enriched with egg yolks or a nonfat version (the last has to be special-ordered). Vanilla bean and cinnamon stick add fragrance, and ground cinnamon tops each serving. (Arroz con leche, $3.95.) Lula Cocina Mexicana, 2720 Main St., Santa Monica, (310) 392-5711.

* All India Cafe: Nothing could be simpler than kheer, the Indian rice pudding prepared here. Fragrant long-grained basmati rice is cooked with milk, sugar and cardamom until it thickens into a soft pudding served cold. (Kheer, $2.50.) All India Cafe, 39 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, (626) 440-0309.

* Citrus: “Rice pudding” is a humble name for Citrus’ extravagant rendition. Creme anglaise and apricot jelly are blended into the rice after it has been cooked twice--first with water, then with milk infused with vanilla bean. Presented in a soup bowl, the pudding is covered with orange sauce. Orange wedges and fresh raspberries make it even prettier. (Rice pudding, $7.) Citrus, 6703 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 857-0034.

* Langer’s Deli: Langer’s pudding is more like thick raisin custard than rice pudding. With sun-leached golden raisins, it contains just enough rice--the Uncle Ben variety--to qualify as a rice dessert. (Rice pudding, $1.85.) Langer’s Deli, 704 S. Alvarado St., Los Angeles, (213) 483-8050.

* The Grill on the Alley: The hefty serving weighs in at 12 ounces. It’s made from medium-grain rice boiled with milk, sugar, vanilla bean and cinnamon stick for more than an hour. Raisins are boiled separately and stirred in. (Rice pudding, $4.25.) The Grill on the Alley, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 276-0615.

* ObaChine: Rice pudding reaches exotic heights in coconut rice pudding napoleon made from Thai jasmine rice, coconut milk and cream and scented with five-spice powder, kaffir lime leaves, cinnamon and vanilla. Whipped cream is folded in for lightness, and the pudding is dolloped between delicate golden-brown coconut wafers along with diced mango and papaya. (Rice pudding napoleon, $5.95.) ObaChine, 242 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 274-4440.

* Musso & Frank Grill: When this eatery removed rice pudding from the menu briefly, customers clamored for its return. The pudding is composed of rice and raisins folded into a custard seasoned with nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla and topped with milky vanilla sauce. (Rice pudding, $3.50.) Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 467-5123.