Nick’s Pitches a Tent Full of California Delights

Just when you thought the rainy season was over, along comes another full-throttle storm. Back to the rain slicker and that newly indispensable accessory, the umbrella. At Nick’s, a new restaurant in South Pasadena, the raindrops drum against the soaring canvas rooftop and streak down the sides of the clear plastic side curtains. I bet Nick Coe, the young chef-proprietor of this charming tent restaurant, can’t wait for blue skies. Meanwhile the potted bay trees out front are thriving and the canopied front terrace is perfumed with scented geraniums.

In fact, the restaurant, with the exception of the kitchen housed in a small building, is all tent, pitched against a background of brick walls and graceful urns spilling over with ivy and climbing plants. On the site of a former parking lot for garbage trucks, Coe, previously chef at Petals restaurant in Shutters at the Beach in Santa Monica, has created a relaxed, informal setting for his polished California cooking.

There’s a wonderful version of endive salad with Roquefort and walnuts, also a terrific grilled shrimp salad with diced avocado, mango, lime and cilantro. A risotto of asparagus and morels, delicately flavored with chervil, is creamy and good, if a touch rich.

Pressed chicken, his version of the Tuscan pollo all mattone, strikes just the right note: It’s juicy and crisp, served with roasted garlic cloves and a delicious grainy polenta, a bargain at $13. The skirt steak, grilled rare, is accompanied by a richly satisfying potato gratin and a perky little herb salad.

Nick’s features a smart little wine list, too, where every bottle is also available by the glass--which may be why so many wine buffs have already set up camp here. Come rain or come shine, Nick’s is a promising young restaurant, and one that is sure to be a welcome oasis in the full heat of summer.

BE THERE

Nick’s, 1009 El Centro St., South Pasadena; (626) 441-7910. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Street parking. Appetizers $4.50 to $6.50; salads $11 to $12.50; pastas $9.50 to $12.50; main courses $13 to $17.50.