‘De-Twanged’ Country Cookout Still Serves Traditional Sound

Radio is rarely the best barometer of the most meaningful work being done in country music. But at Sunday’s KZLA Country Cookout at the Universal Amphitheatre, the station organized a show that included memorable sets by the likes of LeAnn Rimes, Deana Carter and Suzy Bogguss, while even some of the night’s lesser talents thrived in brief, pared-down sets.

Inspired by the success of rock outlet KROQ’s annual Weenie Roast and Acoustic Christmas concerts, KZLA sponsored the benefit for the Los Angeles Regional Food Bank largely “to show what country is today, how it’s changed, and to dispel false images,” station General Manager Dave Erwin said backstage.

Despite the station’s aim to “de-twang” the country format, it was often music with its roots showing that had the most impact Sunday. Headliner Carter sang of romance and life’s disappointments with a sound that could work either as country or roots-flavored rock ‘n’ roll. She had to shorten her already abbreviated set when the show ran long, but Carter was unruffled as she led a six-piece band that included her brother, Jeff Carter, who played electric guitar leads that were sharp and emotional.

Rimes joined Ty Herndon’s band for a short, energetic set of pop country, but it was when she slowed down for a few moments of old-school C&W; that all the comparisons to Patsy Cline made sense. Backed by strong pedal steel and fiddle playing, Rimes’ “These Arms Are Mine” earned excited crowd response, suggesting that her upcoming tribute album to classic country will have an audience after all.

For Rimes, who has been spending time in Los Angeles to study acting, Sunday’s show was simply an opportunity to get on stage again. “It was a great cause,” she said backstage after her set. “And Ty is a good friend of mine, and we never get to sing together. It’s just fun to walk out and sing.”

For his own set, Herndon showed himself a master of what country has become, looking less like a cowboy than a TV heartthrob in his shiny shirt and leather pants. He still sang with enough twang to keep himself rooted in his genre, singing ballads that were sometimes catchy, if not very deep.

An early highlight came from Bogguss, who explored lingering emotions and the complexities of romance without resorting to melodrama. Her four-piece band crafted a rich balance of traditional country and contemporary energy and attitude on the wistful “Some Day Soon” and the joyous “Come On Baby, Drive South.”

Even the far less compelling mainstream country of Tracy Lawrence thrived in a tight 30-minute set, while Rick Trevin~o added some emotional depth with a teary “She Can’t Say We Didn’t Try.”