At Trinidad Beach, Heads Up for Two Promontories

Two heads are better than one. That’s one way of looking at California’s Trinidad State Beach and the two dramatic heads--Elk and Trinidad--that overlook a picturesque cove, harbor and island.

Trinidad Head, a commanding 362-foot-high promontory, is the backdrop of the town of Trinidad with its picturesque harbor and a historic lighthouse. Elk Head, spiked with Sitka spruce and located just north of Trinidad, is more of a secret. Its scenic trails are used mainly by locals.

In the waters between the heads is tree-topped Pewetole Island, the domain of thousands of black oystercatchers. Farther offshore are Flatiron Rock and other surf-battered rocks that serve as resting places for seals and sea lions.

Trinidad State Beach’s 159 acres spread over a marine terrace cloaked in beach pine and Sitka spruce. And consider the lilies of the field: The Columbia lily and the endangered western lily grow atop the steep bluffs.

Trinidad’s beaches and bluffs offer hikers a wild and isolated experience despite their location so close to town. This feeling of getting away from it all may be due to the fact there is not much town to get away from: Trinidad, with a population of 350, is one of California’s smallest incorporated cities.

Trinidad may be tiny, but a couple of friendly bed-and-breakfast inns and half a dozen restaurants could entice the traveler to spend the weekend. Hikers on holiday will especially appreciate the easy access to Trinidad’s trail system.

Tsurai is what the native Yurok called their large village at Trinidad. The Yurok paddled redwood canoes into the harbor and hunted seals. By some estimates the Yurok occupied the area for nearly 5,000 years; they were not displaced until 1916.

Spanish explorers sailed into the natural harbor behind the head on Trinity Sunday, 1775, and named it, then claimed it for Spain. In 1850, when the town was officially founded, Trinidad Harbor briefly bustled as a supply point for prospectors working the Klamath River gold strikes. By the 1870s, Trinidad all but fell off the map when Eureka became the north coast’s major port and logging capital.

Trinidad hosts a marine laboratory operated by Humboldt State University. The lab’s visitors’ wing features an aquarium, children’s touch tank and exhibits that highlight tide pool life. Visiting hours are 9 to 5 Monday through Friday.

Strategically positioned halfway up Trinidad Head, the Trinidad Lighthouse has been continually warning sailors about the dangers of this coast since 1871. In 1915, a monster wave crashed against the headlands and actually cascaded over the lighthouse tower, perched more than 200 feet above sea level.

You can begin your exploration of Trinidad Head at the main state beach access, at the Elk Head access or from Edwards Street at the edge of town.

Directions to trail head: From U.S. 101, take the Trinidad exit and drive 0.25 mile west through town to Stagecoach Road. Turn right (north) and pull into the main Trinidad State Beach parking area on the left.

Elk Head access is located another 0.75 mile up Stagecoach Road for those who want to drive.

The hike: From the picnic area, Mill Creek Trail descends among sword ferns and Sitka spruce. After 0.25 mile, the path splits. A short walk left leads to a sandy beach at the mouth of Mill Creek. Saunter along the surf south 0.5 mile to the base of Trinidad Head.

At the end of the ruggedly beautiful beach you’ll encounter an ugly repository of old tires and rusty boat trailers. Don’t be discouraged; just join a signed trail that soon leads to a paved road. Go right 100 yards to the beginning of the footpath and start your counterclockwise exploration of Trinidad Head.

Numerous benches en route invite hikers to sit and contemplate the inspiring seascape below the head. The path ascends south, then west to a cross atop Trinidad Head. Descend on the gravel road to a paved one and bear left. Enjoy views of Trinidad Harbor as the road leads north, then west. Close the loop and retrace your steps back to the beach via the connector trail.

Walk up the paved road away from the harbor and into town. You can’t miss Humboldt State University Marine Lab. Join the signed Marine Lab Trail for the short walk across the bluffs back to the trail head.

Walk to Elk Head: You can get to Elk Head by descending from Trinidad State Beach’s bluff-top picnic area (by the restroom) on a trail into the woods. The fern-lined path leads under towering Sitka spruce and fir, crosses over the Mill Creek footbridge and continues north over the wooded headlands to the west end of the Elk Head parking area.

The Elk Head Trail (1.5-mile loop) starts at the north end of the parking lot. Walk northwest, then west across the grassy promontory of Elk Head. Soon a path and some steps branching left off the main trail beckon you to descend to College Cove Beach.

Elk Head Trail continues west and serves up magnificent vistas of Trinidad Head and Pewetole Island. About half a mile from the trail head, near the tip of Elk Head, a short side trail leads to Meguil Point (superb tide pools are exposed at very low tide).

The path bends east, looping through stands of cypress, shore pine and Sitka spruce, before returning to the Elk Head trail head.

John McKinney is the author of “Coast Walks: 150 Adventures Along the California Coast” (Olympus Press, $14.95).

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Mill Creek, Trinidad Head, Elk Head Trails

Where: Trinidad States Beach

Distance: From Mill Creek access to beach is 0.5 mile round trip; to Trinidad Head is 2.5 miles round trip with 300-foot elevation gain; to Elk Head is 2.5 mile round trip and around Elk Head is a 1.5 mile loop.

Terrain: Dramatic bluffs and bold headlands.

Highlights: Inspiring coastal trails, picturesque town.

Degree of Difficulty: Easy to moderate.

For More Information: Greater Trinidad Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 356, Trinidad, CA 95570; tel. (707) 677-1610.