A Meal Steeped in History

Locals say the spirits of the rancho era lurk in the hallways of El Adobe de Capistrano. Some swear you can hear the ghosts of criminals locked in the basement or the distant voices of visitors who arrived by stagecoach before the Santa Fe railroad extended to San Juan Capistrano in 1888. A rumor persists of hidden gold and buried treasures.

The ghosts of the Old West are part of El Adobe’s appeal. The walls are steeped in the history of San Juan. The cocktail lounge was part of the Miguel Yorba Adobe, and the wine cellar was the Juzgado jailhouse, built in 1812.

But El Adobe is too festive to be haunted. The first things you notice as you near the restaurant are the red bougainvillea and purple lantana in a burst of cheery color bordering the patio.

While mariachis sing, waitresses pour champagne and waiters take orders indoors and out. This is a fine place to be on a warm Sunday.

The reliable Mexican cooking, old-fashioned menu and the mariachis’ blend of guitar and accordion are appealing to most. On a recent visit, two elderly ladies waltzed between the tables, much to the delight of the other diners.

Brunch begins with a glass filled with fresh fruit topped with either apple juice or Stanford Brut champagne. Starters include the predictable quesadillas (a little salty) and guacamole (excellent). Entrees are composed of old standbys as well: pork chile verde, tostadas, burritos, carne asada and carnitas.

Also offered are a range of egg dishes and about a dozen hearty meat combos with rice and beans.

The best bets are quiche Lorraine, a chunky, cheesy custard with an excellent crust; el peon, a pork tamale with soft-cooked eggs and cheese; scrambled eggs with chiles; and the pride of El Adobe--the Presidential Plate: a mix of traditional standards served to President and Mrs. Richard Nixon on their many visits here.

The menu says the couple came for Mexican food so often that the restaurant’s theme changed from continental to south of the border.

The marinated fried pork carnitas are just crunchy enough to remind you that they are a danger to your health and soft enough to make them delicious.

The pork stew is recommended by an El Adobe regular, but then he also recommends the desserts. Desserts are not this restaurant’s specialty.

Skip the flan and the cheesecake, both of which have no flavor except for the flan’s overpowering rum caramel sauce.

The cuisine is overshadowed by the restaurant’s history, its architecture and its decor. None of the brunch items offer any surprises, and, with the exception of desserts, no disappointments either.

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El Adobe de Capistrano, 31891 Camino Capistrano, San Juan Capistrano; (949) 493-1163. Sunday brunch served from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.