New Interior, Old Menu Put Dal Rae in the Winner’s Circle

“We’re back!” reads the sign beneath the pink neon arrow pointing out the parking entrance to Dal Rae. It’s back after closing for one month for a well-deserved remodeling--a present for the classic Pico Rivera restaurant’s 40th anniversary.

Named after the winning racehorse, Dal Rae looks pretty much the same as it did decades ago--but with new carpet, new paint, new booths (a few are those sleek, high-backed models). And nobody has tinkered with the menu, which features the same table-side Caesar, lobster thermidor and pepper steak as the old one.

In fact, Dal Rae is stuck, happily, in an era when continental cuisine ruled L.A.’s premier kitchens. You get the feeling this place was retro when it opened in 1958. None of the trends in the world outside its doors seem to have made any significant inroads onto the stolid menu.

In 1972, then-Times restaurant editor Lois Dwan wrote in her Los Angeles Restaurant Guide: “The menu was planned by Carlo Balzano, one of the city’s great Italian chefs, and offers some interesting dishes. Veal is Wisconsin milk-fed, pasta is imported, fish are fresh, beef is Eastern choice. There is an unevenness of performance, however. The sound level is high and the sauces do not always live up to promise. But the restaurant is not dull.” I’d say that’s a fair assessment now.

Especially at the holidays, when the place is decked out in white branches twined with twinkling lights, a frothy white Christmas tree, and kitschy Christmas figures and dolls that hypnotically roll their heads to the Christmas soundtrack, Dal Rae has a festive buzz. In the bar (still not quite finished), a crooner with a red-enameled electric guitar holds forth in the style of Johnny Mathis and the young Elvis. Tables of six, eight, 10 exchange gifts, wave warmly at one or the other of Dal Rae’s veteran waitresses.

The table-side cookery expert rolls his cart set with all the fixings for a classic Caesar. Next time I might ask him to go easy on the Worcestershire, but it is, in fact, pungent and good. Hoopla! In go the dry mustard, the crushed garlic, the chopped anchovies, the egg yolk and nine spoons of olive oil to three of wine vinegar. He tosses the dressing with the romaine and showers the salad with grated Parmesan and plain croutons.

Hearts of romaine with blue cheese vinaigrette is a favorite here too. Stay away from the teriyaki tidbits, though. And when it comes to main courses, pass on the pasty lobster thermidor and the sweet, over-sauced veal scallopini. The best choice is the hefty prime rib, which oozes juices. The pepper steak, either a New York cut or a filet topped with sauteed scallions and peppercorns, may be something of an acquired taste for anyone who didn’t grow up at Dal Rae. Nostalgia, in fact, is the restaurant’s biggest appeal.

BE THERE

Dal Rae, 9023 E. Washington Blvd., Pico Rivera; (562) 949-2444. Open for lunch weekdays and dinner every night. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner appetizers $10.75 to $17.50; main courses $14.25 to $30.