The Bowl That Cheers: Celebratory Punch

The clinking of crystal punch glasses once heralded momentous events: a betrothal, a birth, a graduation, a law degree or the arrival of the New Year. To dip into the immense crystal or silver punch bowl was to partake full force in a celebration of tradition, elegance or holiday cheer.

In today’s world of trendy cocktails and wine cellars, caterers rarely receive requests to serve punch, and some hosts scoff at the mere mention of it.

Yet punch, in any of its forms, still confers importance on an event as a new generation of punch drinkers learns to appreciate it for its other assets: It can be thrown together very quickly and conveniently and, for the most part, be left unattended, thus relieving the host or hostess of the burden of mixing cocktails or pouring wine all evening (and deciding which wines to pour).

More practically, punch is easy on the pocketbook and tends to be lower in alcohol content than mixed drinks (though everyone has a story about the time Aunt Sally got tipsy from spiked cider).

Perhaps the most enduring--and enjoyable--aspect of punches is versatility. Inspired by tradition, they are limited by neither season nor social occasion but only by the imagination.

Although most punches are rooted in tradition--from Scandinavian glogg to Spanish sangria--they are easy to alter, given personal preferences, time constraints and health concerns.

Bitter wassail takes on a sweet twist when apple cider is used instead of sherry, and the simmering time is cut in half. Mulled wine marries well with a hefty splash of orange liqueur. But any punch will be easy to hoist when it’s time to toast the new century.

Mulled Wine

Active Work Time: 5 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes

With its bright color, fragrant aroma and bold flavor, this version of mulled wine is a sure party favorite. Adapted from a recipe in “Christmas 101” by Rick Rodgers (Broadway, $15). Use a fruity but full-bodied red wine, such as Merlot or Zinfandel; don’t go too cheap because this punch is only as good as the wine that you use.

2 (750-milliliter) bottles fruity red wine, such as Merlot

1 cup honey

2/3 cup orange-flavored liqueur

Zest and juice from 1 orange, plus additional orange slices for optional garnish

12 whole cloves

12 whole allspice

2 cinnamon sticks, 3 to 4 inches, plus more for optional garnish

4 quarter-size slices fresh ginger root, crushed

3 cardamom pods, crushed, optional

* In large nonreactive pot over low heat, stir together wine, honey, liqueur, orange zest and juice, cloves, allspice, cinnamon, ginger and cardamom, if using. Heat, stirring occasionally, until mulled wine is hot but not boiling, about 30 minutes. Strain and discard solids. Pour into mugs and garnish with orange slices or cinnamon sticks, if desired. Serve warm.

16 (1/2-cup) servings. Each serving: 172 calories, 10 mg sodium, 0 cholesterol, trace fat, 23 gm carbohydrates, trace protein, trace fiber.

Cider Wassail

Active Work Time: 5 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 35 minutes

In Elizabethan times, wassail referred to a combination of Sherry, ale and baked apples. This version is less bitter and time-consuming but every bit as fragrant and popular as the original. For a nonalcoholic mulled cider, substitute 3 cups cranberry juice for the ale. From Rick Rodgers’ “Christmas 101” (Broadway, $15).

4 (12-ounce) bottles pale ale

4 cups apple cider

1/2 cup light brown sugar, packed

Zest from 1 lemon

Juice from 2 lemons

4 quarter-size pieces fresh ginger root

12 whole allspice

6 whole cloves

2 cinnamon sticks, 3 to 4 inches, plus more for optional garnish

* In large nonreactive pot, combine ale, cider, brown sugar, lemon zest and juice, ginger, allspice, cloves and cinnamon sticks. Heat, stirring occasionally, over low heat until hot but not boiling, about 30 minutes. Strain and discard solids. Pour into mugs and garnish with cinnamon sticks, if desired.

20 (1/2-cup) servings. Each serving: 63 calories, 5 mg sodium, 0 cholesterol, 0 fat, 7 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, trace fiber.

Minted Punch

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes

This nonalcoholic sipper gets rave reviews, even from those who typically decline non-spiked punches. From “Heaven’s Banquet” by Miriam Kasin Hospodar (Dutton, $39.95).

5 cups water

6 whole cloves

1 cinnamon stick, 3 to 4 inches

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

1/2 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, plus additional whole mint leaves for garnish

1/2 cup sugar

1 lemon, cut in half

* In large saucepan over medium heat, stir together water, cloves, cinnamon stick, ginger and mint. Bring mixture to boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until liquid is reduced to 4 cups, about 15 minutes.

* Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat.

* Squeeze juice from half of lemon into punch and mix well. Strain punch into pitcher or punch bowl; discard solids. Thinly slice other lemon half and add to punch.

* Serve punch warm or cold; to serve cold, cover tightly and chill 2 hours to overnight.

8 (1/2-cup) servings. Each serving: 50 calories, trace sodium, 0 cholesterol, 0 fat, 13 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, trace fiber.

Brandied White Wine

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes plus 30 minutes standing and 2 hours chilling

This sweet nectar is best when served quite chilled, preferably after dinner. Based on a recipe in Georgeanne Brennan’s “Holiday Fruit” (Smithmark, $14.98).

1 (750-milliliter) bottle dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay

1 cup sugar

1 whole clove

Zest from 1 lemon

1/4 cup brandy

1 lemon, thinly sliced, for for optional garnish

* In large, nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, stir together wine, sugar, clove and lemon zest. Simmer until sugar is dissolved and mixture is heated through, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Strain punch; discard solids. Stir in brandy. Set punch aside to cool to room temperature.

* Pour punch into large chilled pitcher, cover tightly and refrigerate at least 2 hours but not more than 24 hours, or pack pitcher in ice for at least 30 minutes. Pour into wine glasses and garnish with lemon slices, if desired.

6 (1/2-cup) servings. Each serving: 233 calories, 7 mg sodium, 0 cholesterol, 0 fat, 33 grams carbohydrates, trace protein, 0 fiber.