1996 Cha^teau de Chasseloir “Cuvee des Ceps...

1996 Cha^teau de Chasseloir “Cuvee des Ceps Centenaires” Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley. (About $14.)

Muscadet, the universal wine for oysters and fruits de mer in the exuberant brasseries of Nantes and Paris, is usually a thin, high-acid white without much interest (or fruit), but this one proves the exception. Old vines, terroir and good winemaking combine to make an exceptional statement. The wine is ever so slightly petillant (faintly bubbly, prickly on the tongue). Its taste of slate and minerals complements the lively acidity, making this a great wine to start a meal with. Here’s a Muscadet that shows why Muscadet and shellfish is a classic combination.

(Available at Hi-Times Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, North Berkeley Imports, Richmond, Calif., (510) 339-7331.)