Dried Milk Cake

Dried milk is hardly an ingredient in vogue these days. Yet there was a time not long ago when it seemed to be everywhere.

After World War II, when the nation’s first instant dry milk product, Sanalac, was introduced by Sanna Dairies, it was an economic boon to many growing families. In 1951, dry milk could be found in 1-pound packages, which yielded 5 quarts of nonfat milk at about 8 cents a quart. Carnation introduced its version in 1954.

But things could get out of control. For example, The Times on June 14, 1951, urged its readers to try “a whipped topping made of economical, low-calorie and nutritious nonfat dry milk” on top of their strawberry shortcake. It was fresh milk with only the fat and water removed, the article explained, and “will whip into snowy white peaks.”

When we tried this in The Times Test Kitchen, however, there was no confusing the flavor of this ersatz topping with real whipped cream. It was even a poor relation to the nondairy whipped toppings that are so numerous in the freezer section.

On the other hand, the dry milk worked well when incorporated into the shortcake dough, as the original recipe suggested. This is not the kind of foamy shortcake you find at the grocery store. It is truly a short--as in crumbly--cake, almost a biscuit.

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Strawberry Shortcake

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

SHORTCAKE

2 cups flour, plus more for kneading

1/4 cup nonfat dry milk

1/4 cup sugar

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup shortening

2/3 cup water, about

1 tablespoon butter, melted

* Sift together 2 cups flour, nonfat dry milk, sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut in shortening with two knives or pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir with fork and add water to make soft dough.

* Turn out on lightly floured board and knead gently 30 seconds. Roll out 1/2 inch thick. Cut 16 rounds with 2 1/2-inch biscuit cutter. Place 8 rounds on ungreased baking sheet. Spread tops with melted butter. Cover with remaining biscuits.

* Bake at 450 degrees until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

ASSEMBLY

1 quart strawberries

2 to 3 tablespoons sugar

1 cup whipping cream

* Hull and slice strawberries. Sweeten with 2 tablespoons sugar. Lightly crush some of sliced strawberries until juices run; mix with remaining berries.

* Whip cream and sugar to taste; chill 30 minutes.

* Split shortcake biscuits in half. Place half of biscuits in serving dish and cover with spoonfuls of berries. Cover with remaining biscuit halves and more berries. Add whipped topping.

8 servings. Each serving: 377 calories; 548 mg sodium; 49 mg cholesterol; 23 grams fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.51 grams fiber.

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Strawberry towel and ceramic colander from Sur La Table stores.