Upscale Reign Offers Some Wonderful Southern Treats

Sorry, but you can’t come in wearing those shoes, said the guy guarding the door at the new Reign in Beverly Hills, staring down at my guest’s white canvas topsiders. See?, he said, pointing toward the bottom of the glass door where the admonition “No blue jeans. No tennis shoes. No athletic gear” were inscribed. “Keyshawn Johnson wants an upscale kind of place,” he explained, referring to one of the restaurant’s owners, known better as a wide receiver for USC and now the New York Jets.

I argued that no one had informed us of the dress code when we made a reservation. I asked to speak to the manager, who agreed he couldn’t let us in because he’d turned another group, now inside, away just last week for the same reason. Well, I countered, if you’re not going to inform people of the dress code beforehand (which the manager said they generally try to do), shouldn’t you offer shoes? As it happens, they are prepared to offer pants to the jeans-clad, but not shoes for too casual feet.

My other guests were expected any moment. What could I do? I drove my friend back; he changed his shoes. And we started over again.

This time the smiling gatekeeper opened the door wide, and we were ushered into a sleek contemporary restaurant decorated in pale wood and glass. It’s hard to believe this was once the cavernous club and restaurant Sanctuary.

The food was the biggest surprise: updated Southern, beautifully presented and cooked with skill. I loved the fluffy cornbread muffins, which were, for once, not too sweet, and the substantial cream biscuits. Fried green tomatoes make a wonderful starter, or the plump Maryland crab cakes with Cajun remoulade. The plate of spicy grilled Cajun turkey sausages in a red bean sauce with rice is big enough to call it dinner.

Pan-fried red snapper isn’t a bit greasy. The Southern style fried chicken is freshly fried, bursting with juices. And the smothered pork chops are the best I’ve ever had. Tuesday is gumbo night: Mark it on your calendar; this is a smoldering, complexly spiced version with both seafood and sausage.

Tables near me seemed to be filled with regulars singing the praises of their favorite dishes. If the food stays at this level, and I keep an extra pair of shoes in the trunk, I just may become a fixture here, too.

BE THERE

Reign, 180 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 273-4463. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday; lunch expected to start Aug. 1. Appetizers $8.50 to $11; main courses $16.50 to $27. Valet parking.