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Salvadoran Gold

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The tantalizing aroma of steamy hot masa permeates La Plancha, a small, neat pupusa factory in central Los Angeles. Women pat out the dough for these Salvadoran stuffed corn cakes by hand, then plop them on a big griddle until it is covered with golden circles. There are five fillings: Jack cheese; cheese and beans; cheese and loroco, which is a Central American green; chicharron; and revuelta (chicharron combined with cheese). These delicious corn snacks are packed to go with containers of curtido, a spicy oregano-spiked cabbage relish, and hot red chile sauce.

Pupusas, 99 cents each at La Plancha Fabrica de Pupusas, 2814 W. 9th St., Los Angeles. (213) 383-1449.

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