Jumping Into the Hot Seat

Chef Shuffle: Recently opened Spark Woodfire Cooking in Studio City already has a new chef; opening chef Luca Sterpetti left for Italy after just five months. Filling his clogs is Lucio Bedon, who flew over from a job at the Villa Orsi in Bologna, Italy. Bedon had worked with Gino Angelini (the chef of Vincenti) in Italy five years ago, which is how he hooked up with Spark owner Danilo Terribili, who owns Alto Palato. So far, you can only taste Bedon’s work in his weekly specials, but he plans a fish special every Wednesday--patterned, he says, after the traditional American fish fry. Of course, his interpretation of this bit of Americana is not too traditional--lightly breaded trout and marinated halibut with wild herbs. Other specials include grilled rack of lamb and Muscovy duck. Spark Woodfire Cooking is at 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City; (818) 623-8883. . . . Dreadlocks-wearing Brandon Boudet has left Fenix, the restaurant in the Argyle Hotel on Sunset Boulevard. New Orleans-born Boudet will be replaced by Gaetan Croisier, who has cooked in Paris. Fenix is at 8358 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 654-7100. . . . Mandalay, the Asian restaurant and bar on La Brea, has a new guy in the kitchen: Jim Shiebler. He’s added quite a few European touches to the menu, such as cod en papillote and spinach, artichoke and ricotta ravioli in a tomato sauce. The tea-smoked Chilean sea bass with a ginger crust is a good example of Euro-Asian fusion, but the beef tenderloin stuffed with Roquefort and wild boar bacon and served with truffle potatoes is strictly Euro. Mandalay is at 611 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles; (323) 933-0717.

French Fun: When a bunch of French guys get together, you know food will be involved. When they’re all French chefs, you know it will be good. Jean-Francois Meteigner, chef-owner of La Cachette, has invited five of his friends to sit and discuss food with you over dinner Monday. Pascal Olhats (Pascal, Newport Beach), Peter Roelant (Four Oaks, Bel-Air), Alain Giraud (Lavande, Santa Monica), Patrick Jamone (the Regency Club, Westwood) and Andre Angeles (Frenchy’s Bistro, Long Beach) will each sit at a different table, surrounded by guests. While you dine on hors d’oeuvres, morel mushrooms and chestnut soup, seared Alaskan sable fish with ginger-plum sauce, stuffed baby quails, and meringue with black-currant coulis, the chefs will chat and change seats with each course. The $75 price tag includes wine with each course. Cocktails begin at 6:30 p.m.; dinner begins at 7:15 p.m.

* La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City; (310) 470-4992.

The Nouveau Cometh: Beaujolais Nouveau is released on the third Thursday of November every year, and every year there’s a celebration--because hey, who doesn’t like fruity, low-alcohol wine? If you’d like to taste glass after glass of the 1999 vintage, just cast your eyes below for a list of places that have rushed to the airport to pick up the just-released wines. All dinners take place next Thursday.

Pinot Provence is serving a four-course meal with entree choices of spring lamb cassoulet, Long Island duck breast and leg, grilled Atlantic salmon, or a Napoleon of braised veal cheeks. The $48 price includes one bottle of wine per table. Dinner is served from 5:30-10 p.m. Pinot Provence is on the lobby level of the Westin South Coast Plaza, 686 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa; (714) 444-5900. . . . Bernard Jacoupy promises to keep your glass filled with Beaujolais Nouveau all through dinner at Lunaria--but you’ll have to drain your glass to get a refill; no mixing of wines. Accompanying the Beaujolais is a three-course dinner with choices like smoked salmon tart (for appetizer), duck confit (entree) and strawberry clafouti (dessert). With nonstop wine service, it’s $45. Lunaria is at 10351 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City; (310) 282-8870. . . . Lavande offers two brands of Beaujolais Nouveau for $8 a glass or $32 a bottle. Available menu specials include a charcuterie plate, a cheese plate and rabbit terrine. Lavande is at 1700 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 576-3181. . . . In Ventura, 71 Palm is serving a three-course menu with one glass of wine for $32. You can get more wine at $6.95 a glass or $26 a bottle. 71 Palm is at 71 Palm St., Ventura; (805) 653-7222.

A Visit From Alice: Alice Waters, chef-owner of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse, is popping by L.A. for a couple of days. On Nov. 18, she’ll be at the Cook’s Library bookstore signing her new “Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook” from 1 to 3 p.m. The Cook’s Library is at 8373 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles; (323) 655-3141. The following day, she’ll attend a cocktail party at Bruce Marder’s Capo from 3 to 5 p.m. Marder will be serving Chianti and Pinot Grigio wines with hors d’oeuvres, no charge, and Waters will sign her book. Capo is at 1810 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 394-5550.

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Angela Pettera can be reached by voicemail at (213) 237-3153 or by e-mail at pettera@prodigy.net.