Punching Up the Bread Basket

We become turkey-obsessed this time of year, fretting over this huge piece of poultry that we just know is going to make or break our reputations as it cooks. But often the more memorable dish is not the main event at all, but the supporting cast.

That’s especially true for homemade breads--the hot little rolls and buns that can make even a humdrum meal truly something to be thankful for. Even when they’re surrounded by a formidable feast, a pretty basket of homemade breads--at once sophisticated and wholesome--still shines.

Just pull apart a hot biscuit and watch the steam escape. We go on so about the rest of the menu that it’s not until we bite into a freshly baked roll with a slick of butter that it occurs to us how important the simplest things can be.

Serving fresh bread doesn’t have to be labor-intensive. If you are short of time, you can make any yeast dough a day ahead. Store it in a tightly sealed bag in the refrigerator. Remove it 1 to 2 hours before the meal and allow it to warm up for 30 minutes, then shape it into rolls or buns and let them rise.

They take only 25 to 35 minutes to bake--perfect for that time after the roast turkey has been cleared out of the oven and is waiting to be carved. To keep breads warm on the way to the table, wrap them in tea towels and put them in the basket.

A bountiful offering of seasonal loaves, buns and rolls is also handy stuff for the day after, to use as a throne for King Turkey’s leftovers.

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Bread-Making Basics

YEAST

* Dry yeast is sold in 1/4-ounce packages or in bulk in jars. I prefer to use the latter, because you can scoop out as much as you need and you don’t have half-full envelopes left over. Bulk yeasts were once more difficult to find, but with the popularity of bread-machine baking they are now staples at better supermarkets. If you prefer to use the envelopes, each package has 2 1/4 teaspoons of yeast. Store yeast in a cool, dry place or in the refrigerator.

PANS AND MOLDS

* Most of the dough for rolls and buns can be hand-formed or cut into small slabs.

* Look for mini-loaf pans in gourmet stores or by mail order. La Cuisine sells 12 mini-loaves in a sheet that will fit regular domestic ovens. (Most recipes for one fair-sized loaf of bread will make 12 mini-loaves). La Cuisine also offers individual (3 1/2x2 1/2-inch) mini-loaf pans and four units linked together. La Cuisine: (800) 521-1176.

* Tuna and salmon cans make interesting roll pans, as do muffin tins. When using the cans, make sure they are well cleaned and dried. Spray with nonstick cooking spray before using and place them on a baking sheet when baking. You can also splay out a muffin liner and place this in the bottom of tuna or salmon cans for sweet, quick bread-style breads to ensure a nice, finished look.

* Small cast-iron pans (6-, 7- and 8-inch) make terrific mini-loaves as well. Just place a hot skillet of fresh bread at a few parts of the table (most yeast recipes make enough dough to fill three small skillets). A cast-iron corn-cob mold is a classic and works well for light breads, corn and otherwise.

* Serve breads in baskets lined with decorative place mats, wrapping rolls and buns to keep them warm.

Flaky Angel Biscuits

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes plus 8 hours chilling

A combination of leaveners--yeast, baking powder and soda--makes these favorite Southern biscuits extra light. Traditionally, a big batch is made and kept refrigerated. Portions are cut off as required to ensure a couple of baskets of fresh, piping hot, flaky little breads. This same dough, rolled thin or simply hand stretched, then fried in olive oil or slapped on an open grill, produces tender-chewy, absolutely incredible flat breads (similar to Indian naans). Great for rolling around turkey leftovers.

5 cups flour, plus more for rolling

8 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

3 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, chilled

1/2 cup shortening, chilled

5 teaspoons dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water

1 3/4 to 2 cups buttermilk, warmed 1 minute in microwave

1/4 cup milk

* In large bowl, stir together 5 cups flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda and sugar. Cut butter and shortening into dry ingredients until crumbly and well distributed.

* In small bowl, sprinkle dry yeast over warm water and stir briefly. Allow to dissolve and swell, 6 to 8 minutes. Add yeast and buttermilk to dry ingredients and toss with fork to blend and moisten, creating a soft dough.

* Cover bowl and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight (dough can be kept in refrigerator 1 to 2 weeks).

* To bake a few biscuits at a time, remove portion of dough. On lightly floured work surface, roll dough to thickness of 1 inch. Cut into similar-size rounds, wedges or squares with knife or biscuit cutter. Brush generously with milk.

* Place on baking sheet. Bake at 425 degrees until lightly browned on top, 12 to 15 minutes.

24 (2 1/2-inch) biscuits. Each biscuit: 161 calories; 378 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.07 gram fiber.

Butter-Dipped Cloverleaf Rolls

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 1 hour 15 minutes standing

Dipped chunks or balls of dough are tucked into a mini-loaf pan or regular muffin pans. They bake up into a buttery-crusted roll, reminiscent of a croissant in taste but with the velvety crumb of a traditional rich white bread roll. Buttermilk makes these extra tender. This dough can also be used to make Parkerhouse or fan rolls.

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons dry yeast

1/4 cup warm water

1 1/4 cups buttermilk, warmed in microwave 1 minute

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, softened, cut into small chunks, plus more for greasing

1/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons salt

3 to 4 cups bread flour

1/2 cup butter, melted

* In large bowl, sprinkle sugar and yeast over warm water and stir briefly. Let stand, allowing yeast to swell, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in buttermilk, butter chunks, sugar, salt and most of flour. Knead to make soft dough, adding more flour as required, until smooth and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes.

* Place in lightly greased bowl and cover. Allow to rise until double in bulk, about 45 minutes, or refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight (if refrigerating, allow dough to warm up before proceeding, 2 to 3 hours).

* Divide dough into 12 portions. Cut each portion into 3 chunks and dip in melted butter. (For more traditional looking rolls, form chunks into small balls by rolling dough between hands.) Place 3 balls or chunks into each well of 12-cup muffin tin. Drizzle any leftover melted butter over rolls. Cover lightly with plastic (slipping entire baking sheet into a large, trash bag works well) and allow to rise until double in bulk, 30 to 40 minutes.

* Bake at 375 degrees 10 minutes; reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake until lightly browned, another 15 to 20 minutes.

VARIATION

Add 1 tablespoon finely crushed garlic and 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley to melted butter. Proceed as above.

1 dozen rolls. Each roll: 266 calories; 540 mg sodium; 32 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 32 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 0.10 gram fiber.

Moist Miniature Corn and Sour Cherry Loaves

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes

Crunchy on the outside, airy and moist on the inside, these quick breads can be more than a Thanksgiving sideboard favorite. The sour cherries are interesting, but this recipe works well without them too. The loaves’ deep corn flavor is exceptional.

3/4 cup oil

1 1/2 cups sugar

3 eggs

1 cup water

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon lemon extract or lemon oil

1 teaspoon salt

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 cups flour

1 cup stone-ground cornmeal

1 cup sour cherries, well drained and dried, cut in half

Butter for greasing or nonstick cooking spray

* Mix together oil and sugar. Blend in eggs, then add water, vanilla and lemon extract. Combine salt, baking powder, baking soda, flour and cornmeal, then fold dry ingredients into wet. Stir in cherries. Batter will be thin.

* Pour batter into 10 generously greased (1 1/2x3- to 4-inch) mini-loaf pans lined with paper muffin caps flattened to fit bottom of loaf pans. (You can also use 12 greased muffin cups lined with paper cups.) Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake until edges are lightly browned and tops are just firm (may have a crack down center) and spring back when touched, 16 to 20 minutes.

10 mini-loaves. Each loaf: 397 calories; 366 mg sodium; 64 mg cholesterol; 19 grams fat; 55 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

Butternut Squash Little Loaves

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours 30 minutes

This combination of mellow butternut squash puree, applesauce, chopped whole dates and golden raisins makes for a unique dessert mini-loaf. No one can seem to guess the medley of flavors, but they suit Thanksgiving to a “T.” You can also use mashed sweet potato to replace the butternut squash; leftovers of either work well. Or cut a squash in half, remove strings and seeds and bake at 350 degrees until tender, about 45 minutes. Let cool, then remove squash flesh and puree. These can also be made in muffins tins.

2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups oil

4 eggs

1 cup cooked butternut squash puree (from 1 small squash)

1 cup unsweetened applesauce

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

3 1/2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 cup dates, plumped in warm water 20 minutes, drained, pitted and chopped

1 cup golden raisins, plumped in warm water 20 minutes, drained

1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons butter for greasing

* In large bowl, blend together sugar, oil, eggs, squash puree, applesauce, vanilla and lemon zest.

* In another bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger and salt. Mix into wet batter, stirring gently but thoroughly. Stir in dates, raisins and nuts.

* Spoon batter into 3 generously greased (8x4-inch) loaf pans or 12 to 16 mini-loaf pans. Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out almost clean and tops are browned, 45 to 55 minutes for larger loaves, 25 to 35 minutes for mini-loaves.

24 to 30 servings. Each serving: 331 calories; 70 mg sodium; 38 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.55 gram fiber.

Rich Egg Turbans

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 50 minutes standing

Eggy, moist and light as air, these usually disappear before dinner is served, so count on making an extra batch.

DOUGH

2 tablespoons dry yeast

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 1/4 cups warm water

1/3 cup sugar

2 1/4 teaspoons salt

1/3 cup oil

2 tablespoons honey

2 eggs

1 egg yolk

4 1/2 to 5 cups all-purpose or bread flour, plus more for kneading

Oil for greasing

* In large mixing bowl, sprinkle yeast and sugar over warm water. Let stand to allow yeast to swell and dissolve, 6 to 8 minutes. Briskly stir in sugar, salt, oil, honey, eggs, yolk and most of flour. Knead dough on floured surfaced 8 to 10 minutes to make soft, springy dough. Place in greased bowl; set bowl in large plastic bag. Let rise until doubled in size, 30 to 35 minutes.

* Divide dough into 12 or 16 portions (depending if you want smaller or larger rolls). Roll out each portion on floured surface into 8-inch length. Wind length in tight circle and tuck bottom end under roll, so it looks like a turban. Place on large baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

EGG GLAZE

1 tablespoon water

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 egg

1 egg yolk

* Whisk together water, sugar, salt, egg and yolk.

ASSEMBLY

Sesame seeds or poppy seeds, dried minced garlic or onion bits, optional

* Brush each roll with 2 coats Egg Glaze. Sprinkle with seeds or dried garlic or onion, if desired. Place baking sheet in large plastic bag (a trash bag is fine) and let rise until puffy, about 20 minutes.

* Bake at 375 degrees until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes, reducing heat if rolls brown too fast.

12 to 16 rolls. Each of 16 rolls: 225 calories; 384 mg sodium; 74 mg cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 35 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.11 gram fiber.

Cheddar Cheese Potato Rolls

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 45 minutes standing

A particularly chewy, cheesy moist roll--ideal fresh, toasted or for sandwiches.

Oil

1/2 cup warm water

1 cup half and half or evaporated milk

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons dry yeast

3 tablespoons shortening, melted

5 drops hot pepper sauce

3 to 4 red-skinned potatoes, shredded (about 2 cups)

3/4 pound Cheddar cheese, shredded (3 cups)

About 5 cups bread or unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

2 tablespoons melted butter, for greasing

1/4 cup cornmeal

* Lightly oil mixing bowl and dough hook to prevent dough from sticking. In mixing bowl, whisk together water, half and half, sugar, salt, yeast, shortening and hot sauce, stirring to dissolve salt and sugar. Stir in shredded potatoes, 1 1/2 cups cheese and enough flour to make soft dough. When you can no longer mix by hand, begin kneading or remove dough to mixer with dough hook and knead until smooth, 8 minutes. Turn dough out onto lightly floured board and knead by hand until smooth, about 2 minutes. Cover with tea towel and let rest 15 minutes.

* Divide dough into 12 to 16 roll-sized mounds. Form into ovals and place on baking sheet. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle tops lightly with cornmeal. Place baking sheet in large plastic bag and let rolls rise until doubled, 30 minutes.

* Make lengthwise shallow slash on top of each roll. Bake at 400 degrees 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 375 degrees and sprinkle remaining 1/2 cup cheese on top of bread. Continue baking until rolls are nicely browned and cheese is melted, 8 to 10 minutes.

12 rolls. Each roll: 417 calories; 786 mg sodium; 44 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 49 grams carbohydrates; 15 grams protein; 0.27 gram fiber.

Whole-Wheat Honey Walnut Mini-Loaves

Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 10 minutes plus 1 hour 25 minutes standing

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons dry yeast

1 1/2 cups warm water

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted and cooled

1/3 cup honey

2 egg whites, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons salt

2 cups whole-wheat flour

About 3 1/2 to 4 cups bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

Oil, for greasing

Ground cinnamon, for garnish

* Toast walnuts in dry skillet over medium heat, shaking pan or stirring nuts constantly until golden, 5 to 6 minutes.

* Sprinkle yeast over warm water and let stand until yeast is bubbly, 6 to 8 minutes.

* In large bowl, combine melted butter, honey, egg whites, cinnamon and salt. Add yeast. Briskly fold in whole-wheat flour and 1 cup bread flour. Begin to knead by hand on floured surface or with dough hook, adding flour as needed until dough leaves sides of bowl. Dough should become soft and no longer sticky. You might need slightly more flour; add a bit at a time. Knead about 5 minutes then press in walnuts. Knead 3 more minutes. Cover dough with damp tea towel and let rest on lightly floured board until doubled, 45 minutes.

* Punch down dough to release any air. Divide dough into 12 portions. Shape into ovals and place in well-greased (2 1/2x4 1/2-inch) miniature loaf pans. Allow dough to rise until flush with top of pans, about 40 minutes. Dust with flour and cinnamon.

* Place in 375-degree oven, then reduce heat to 350 degrees. Bake until tops are lightly browned, about 25 to 35 minutes. Cool in pan 10 minutes before removing.

10 mini-loaves. Each loaf: 397 calories; 581 mg sodium; 25 mg cholesterol; 14 grams fat; 60 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0.90 gram fiber.