Beach Buys

The Long Beach downtown farmers market, the largest of the four harbor area markets, draws a lively ethnic mix of shoppers and produce. Last Friday, crowds besieged Thongsai Phannavong of Hemet to buy green cherry tomatoes (“we use them in soup or mix them with mudfish,” a Cambodian housewife explained), lemon grass and moloukhiya, okra leaves typically prepared in a garlicky soup that’s the Egyptian national dish.

Kachi Takahashi of Carson’s Top Veg sold kabocha (squat green Japanese squash), New Zealand spinach, ferocious orange and red habanero chiles, white beets (looking like potatoes on the outside, white all the way through) and mild-tasting red Russian kale.

From farms in Orange County, Paula Smith brought pasilla and jalapeno chiles, tomatillos, leeks and several mini-pumpkins: Jack-B-Littles, flat and yellow; Wee-B-Littles, round and orange; and ghostly white Spookys. Karl Nejely of Fallbrook had Bearss limes, Valencia oranges and small, very fuzzy quinces.

Many stands from the Central Valley carried Red Flame and Thompson seedless grapes, including MB Farms of Raisin City, which also had scroungy-looking but ultra-ripe green Adriatic figs and scarlet Foothill pomegranates. Jess Swope of Selma had Muscat of Alexandria grapes, seeded but exquisitely flavorful. Jim Van Foeken of Ivanhoe displayed crunchy late-season Asian pears, including pear-shaped, mild-flavored Yalis and round, tan-skinned Shinkos; he also sold newly picked Fuji apples, pale green in color but crisp and sweet.

Long Beach downtown farmers market, Promenade North between 3rd Street and Broadway, Fridays, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.