ROSH HASHANA : New Year’s in a Foreign Land : The kindness of strangers can be delicious.

Last year we arrived in Milan the day before Rosh Hashana. We knew no one there--certainly no one Jewish. Alone for the New Year, we planned to attend services that evening at the local Sephardic synagogue, which we had found several years ago while touring the city.

That afternoon, we were relaxing in our hotel room when the phone rang. We couldn’t imagine who it was; we didn’t know anyone in the city. It turned out to be Adina Cohen, inviting us to her home for dinner after Rosh Hashana services.

She is the wife of Rabbi Eliezer Cohen, the retired hazan (cantor) of the synagogue. She was born in Beirut; he is from Cairo. They had heard from their nephew, Moshe Salem, who lives in Los Angeles, that we were traveling in Italy and might be in Milan during the new year.

After the services, we met them outside the synagogue and walked to their home along with several members of their family. We were seated in the living room and met their three daughters, Melitta, Sharon, Elisheza, as well as aunts, uncles, cousins and friends as they arrived from the synagogue.

We all sat at a table so big it almost filled the dining room. Almost everyone spoke English, but the Cohens made sure that we sat close to their daughters, who were educated in Israel and speak several languages. They made us feel welcome and explained many of the Sephardic customs with which we were unfamiliar.

The evening began with a washing of the hands and blessing recited over the two round, home-baked loaves of challah. Rabbi Cohen broke off pieces of the challah, dipped them in salt and sugar, and passed a piece to each guest.

Adina Cohen explained that for this special bread, the dough is left to rise only once and therefore takes less time to prepare. The unusual texture--crusty on the outside, yet light and soft inside--comes from kneading the dough to its maximum elasticity. It is quite different from the challah that I make for my family.

Then the ceremonial foods were presented. Each dish was served separately, and a special blessing was said. First a plate of sweet dates, representing peace and beauty, was passed around the table. Then a bowl of fresh pomegranate seeds in rose water was served, the symbol of fertility and worthy deeds. Next, slices of candied zucca (pumpkin) were eaten, representing a full year of good blessings for the family.

Also, during the New Year celebration, leeks are eaten to bring good luck, and Adina Cohen brought out a large leek frittata that was cut into wedges. The final dishes consisted of apple slices cooked in honey to symbolize a sweet year, and bowls of black-eyed peas expressing hope for the future.

We thought the evening was over, but it was just beginning. The formal dinner then started with a whole poached salmon, cut and served at the table and topped with homemade mayonnaise.

Adina Cohen told us that some of the foods she serves, such as fish, were not usually eaten in Lebanon because they were considered a luxury and were almost impossible to find. Since her marriage, many of the dishes she prepares for Rosh Hashana are her husband’s family’s recipes from Egypt.

Roasted veal stew was the main course. Rabbi Cohen said that lamb is often eaten during Rosh Hashana, but because it was not available at the local kosher butcher shop, they had substituted veal.

Crusted rice, first steamed and then fried, was the perfect accompaniment for the veal and was served along with stewed zucchini and sauteed Swiss chard.

Dessert was simple and refreshing: platters of sliced melon and cactus pears garnished with mint leaves.

Sharing and friendship were at the heart of this wonderful evening, as were the foods. It was a family affair. Adina Cohen, a talented cook, baked the challah and prepared the entire dinner herself. Her daughters were responsible for setting the table and doing the dishes, and Rabbi Cohen performed the service.

We always spend Rosh Hashana with our family and were not happy being alone during the holiday. But the evening we spent with the Cohen family in Italy turned out to be a special treat. Inspired by their hospitality and fascinated with the foods they served, we plan to include some of those dishes in our holiday dinner this year.

Zeidler is author of the newly published “The 30-Minute Kosher Cook” (William Morrow, $22).

Sesame Seed Challah (Egyptian Holiday Bread)

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 1 hour standing

2 (1/4-ounce) packages dry yeast

3/4 cup warm water, plus more for kneading

2 tablespoons sugar

3 1/2 to 4 1/2 cups flour, plus more for kneading

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

1/4 cup sesame seeds

* Combine yeast with water and pinch of sugar and set aside.

* Combine flour, remaining sugar, salt and 2 eggs in large mixing bowl. Add yeast mixture and mix well. Dough will be moist and sticky. Knead until dough is smooth, about 10 minutes, adding flour or water as needed. Dough should still be moist. Return to bowl, sprinkle dough with flour, cover with towel and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

* Divide dough in half, place each half on lightly floured board and lightly knead into round loaves. Place on greased baking sheet, leaving space between loaves, as they will rise and expand when baking. Beat remaining egg. Brush loaves with beaten egg and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown and completely baked inside, 20 to 30 minutes.

2 loaves, 8 servings each. Each of 16 servings: 126 calories; 50 mg sodium; 40 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 21 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.13 gram fiber.

Leek Frittata

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

4 eggs

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

5 leeks (about 3/4 pound), white part only, split and washed well, cut into thin slices

* Lightly beat eggs and salt and pepper to taste with fork.

* Heat olive oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet and add leeks. Cook over medium-high heat until tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

* Pour egg mixture over leeks, mix and cook over medium-low heat until eggs are set on the bottom but soft on top, 3 to 4 minutes.

* Put plate over frittata and invert skillet to unmold egg onto plate. Slide frittata back into pan to cook other side. Cook until firm, about 5 minutes. Slide onto platter, cut into wedges, and serve hot or at room temperature.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 115 calories; 67 mg sodium; 85 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.94 gram fiber.

Crusted Rice

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes * Easy

1/4 cup olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 cup rice

2 cups chicken broth or water

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

* In large, heavy skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil. Add onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add rice and stir until each grain of rice is coated with oil. Add broth and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally until rice is soft and liquid is absorbed, 10 minutes more.

* Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat in 10-inch nonstick skillet. Add cooked rice mixture, pressing down with back of spoon. Reduce heat to low and cook until brown and crisp on bottom, about 20 minutes. Holding large serving dish firmly on top of skillet, carefully turn skillet over. Remove skillet; you should have perfect round of crusty rice.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 131 calories; 186 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.11 gram fiber.

Veal Stew

Active Work Time: 40 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours

This stew can be prepared a day ahead and will taste even better because the flavors have had longer to meld.

4 pounds veal shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup olive oil

1 onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 carrots, sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 cup dry white wine

3 cups veal or chicken stock

1 large tomato, chopped

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 bay leaves

10 black peppercorns

4 sprigs parsley

8 sprigs thyme, tarragon or oregano

4 long sprigs marjoram or 1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 tablespoon dried thyme, tarragon or oregano

10 pearl onions

* Season veal on both sides with salt and pepper. In large, heavy pot or casserole, heat oil and cook veal until well-browned on all sides. Add onion and garlic and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add carrots and celery and cook 5 minutes. Add wine and simmer 2 minutes. Add stock, tomato and tomato paste and bring to boil.

* Combine bay leaves, peppercorns, parsley, thyme, marjoram and dried thyme in piece of cheesecloth; tie with string and add to pot. Cover and bake at 350 degrees until veal is tender, about 2 hours and 30 minutes.

* While veal is cooking, place pearl onions in mixing bowl and cover with boiling water. After 5 minutes, pour off water and peel onions. Add to stew. Remove cheesecloth bag just before serving in soup bowls.

8 to 10 servings. Each of 10 servings: 266 calories; 405 mg sodium; 117 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 29 grams protein; 0.54 gram fiber.

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Platter in cover photo from Bloomingdale’s