TIMES PAST : The Amazing Disappearing Cookie

Now that school has begun, let’s take a look back at one of the most anticipated moments of a student’s day: lunchtime. This, of course, is when mystery meat and soggy sandwiches are out, and “cool” flavors and foods with “bite” are in. It’s when Mom’s or Dad’s lunch-making skills get scrutinized.

But, parents, don’t despair. Spiced Lunch Box Cookies--an oatmeal-raisin-nut blend with hints of ginger and nutmeg--will have your young scholars drooling.

The recipe appeared in The Los Angeles Times Home Magazine on Sept. 9, 1956, as one of three homemade school lunch treats. “Lunches can be appetizing and interesting, or dull and monotonous depending upon the imagination of the lunch packer,” the accompanying article explained.

Hands down, these cookies fall into the appetizing-interesting category. They’re moist and delicious (and prone to disappearing within minutes--even in a grown-up crowd).

“Desserts give the satisfying, finishing touch to the packed lunch,” the article said. “Cake and cookies do double duty too. They add variety and help meet the high energy needs of growing children.”

The National School Lunch Program, which began in 1946 under President Harry S. Truman, recommended a lunch that included two ounces of protein-rich foods, one or more portions of enriched bread, three-fourths of a cup of vegetables and/or fruit, two teaspoons butter or margarine and a cup of milk.

For packed lunches, this meant using beef, chicken, fish, eggs, cheese or peanut butter as sandwich fillings; alternating among whole wheat, rye, pumpernickel, banana, raisin and nut breads; and incorporating fresh vegetables such as lettuce, celery leaves and parsley into sandwiches, relishes and salads.

The 1956 article also recommended packing puddings or cottage cheese in “little paper or plastic cups with tight-fitting covers” (possibly Tupperware containers, which were then the rage) and using a thermos bottle to carry milk, fruit drinks or soup. In other words, vary the lunch menu as well as the way it’s served.

Today, the National School Lunch Program provides lunches to more than 26 million students daily; changes have been made to the recommendations, such as allowing yogurt as a protein-rich food.

As for the Spiced Lunch Box Cookies, they too have survived the years and kids’ fickle tastes. Pack them next time for lunch, and you’ll see they have all the “cool” and “bite” required for a school year.

Spiced Lunch Box Cookies

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

1 1/2 cups flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 cups quick-cooking oatmeal

2/3 cup shortening

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 eggs

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup raisins plus more for decorating

1/2 cup chopped nuts, such as walnuts or pecans

* Sift flour with salt, baking powder, ginger and nutmeg. Stir into oatmeal and set aside.

* Cream shortening with sugar on medium speed, 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in eggs. Add flour mixture alternately with milk. Stir in raisins and nuts.

* Drop from teaspoon onto lightly greased baking sheets. Top each with 1 raisin, if desired.

* Bake at 375 degrees until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.

6 dozen cookies. Each cookie: 62 calories; 31 mg sodium; 6 mg cholesterol; 3 grams fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.09 gram fiber.