IN THE MOOD : Scrambles

We’re seeing more scrambled egg dishes on breakfast menus. They’re made with whole eggs, egg whites or tofu--and anything else a cook might throw in.

* Eat Well: On the menu, it’s not called a scramble but the Big Mess, and it contains potatoes, mixed vegetables, spicy sausage, cheese and whatever else is handy in the kitchen. (The Big Mess, $5.75.) Eat Well, 3916 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 664-1621.

* The Brickhouse: This reliable cafe offers four scrambles, which can be made with whole eggs or egg whites only. Try the scramble with chopped grilled chicken breast, feta cheese, tomato, spinach, mushrooms and pepperoncini. There’s also a low-fat turkey chorizo served with salsa and black beans. (Scrambles, $5.95 to $6.50.) Brickhouse, 826 Hampton Drive, Venice, (310) 581-1639.

* Newsroom Cafe: The News Scramble is made with whole eggs or egg whites, sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onion and a green chile pesto; the pasta and egg scramble is made with Roma tomatoes and chicken sausage or turkey ham. Huevos Cancun is scrambled with corn tortilla chips and topped with three sauces. (Scrambles, $5.95 to $6.25.) Newsroom Cafe, 120 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 652-4444.

* Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop: Hollywood’s hippest motel coffee shop’s Tower scramble combines tomatoes, spinach, avocados and Jack cheese. Susan’s scramble is Cheddar, tortilla strips and lots of chicken pesto sausage; the Lena is scrambled with tortilla strips, tomatillo sauce and ranchero cheese, and comes with black beans and more tortillas on the side. (Scrambles, $7.95 to $8.95.) Hollywood Hills Coffeeshop, 6145 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, (323) 467-7678.

* Fred 62: Chef Fred Eric creates unusual tofu scrambles, now including chilaquiles with black beans, cherry tomatoes and a ranchero-like roasted pepper sauce. A Thai scramble is served in spicy coconut lemon grass broth with peas, bok choy, carrots and shiitake mushrooms. The Tokyo scramble has shiitake, snow peas, green onions, a teriyaki-style sauce and red pepper. (Tofu scrambles, $7.62.) Fred 62, 1850 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 667-0062.

* Guelaguetza: Try the eggs scrambled with ham or sausage or the huevos a la Mexicana, scrambled with tomato, onions and jalapenos. (Scrambles, $4.) Guelaguetza, 3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 427-0601; 11127 Palms Blvd., Palms, (310) 837-8600.

* Old Town Bakery: At this favorite patio breakfast spot, the scrambles change daily. For example, the egg white scramble may contain zucchini, asparagus and red bell peppers; the daily scramble (three whole eggs) comes with leeks, yellow squash and onions. All scrambles are served with potatoes and biscuits. (Scrambles, $7.95.) Old Town Bakery, 166 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, (626) 793-2993.