It’s Hip to Be Square

Most people who grow up to become bakers can point to one specific dessert that inspired them. Maybe it was the quest for the definitive chocolate torte, a yen to recreate a wedding cake in the Martha Stewart tradition or to replicate an incredible baguette experienced on that first student trip to Europe.

Me? I sheepishly confess: My interest began because of a square. No ordinary square, however, but one very special, consummately delectable morsel called an Apricot Square, which my mother raved about for years.

Every social gathering, every bar mitzvah sweet table, every other woman’s meeting featured this famous square. Throughout my formative years my mother waxed lyrical about “these absolutely wonderful little shortbread and apricot squares. Now, if only we could make a little square like the one I had at that party. . . .”

My mom had a thing for bar cookies in general. She held that they were the test of a great baker: one neat, small package, sweet but not cloyingly so--texture, crumb, flavor, all in one or two bites.

“Good bakers prove themselves with squares,” Mom would say sagely. “Squares are telling.”

I agree. A square is at once decadent and modest, small and satisfying. A good one is the stuff of home baking legend.

Although bar cookies have been around forever, they have changed with the times. In the ‘40s they were the dainty things served at women’s luncheons. A woman could make a reputation as a homemaker with a simple batch. In the ‘60s and ‘70s, squares seemed synonymous with brownies and granola bars. Perhaps predictably, their popularity wavered and they were relegated to lunch box fare.

Now, thanks to the trend in the bistro coffee and tea trade, squares are having another go-round. What makes squares and bars perfect is that you can make hoards of them in a short time. This makes sense in the corner cafe, and equally so at home.

They are the perfect balance between cake and cookie, and their size easily accommodates appetites small (cut them dainty) or large (cut them generous).

What makes the new squares, brownies and bars even more exciting is that now they are baked up really tall. And this is a curious thing, because though size shouldn’t matter, with squares it does. The taste and texture of one, baked big, thick and dense, is unique.

Notting Hill Brownies

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 1 hour freezing

Maybe the most memorable part of the romantic comedy “Notting Hill” is the brownie scene. In it, the characters have a contest to determine whose life is most miserable. The prize is the last brownie from dinner. This is a mega-brownie. I have never seen such a dense, mammoth brownie in my life. It looked luscious. Ordinarily brownies, though they taste wonderful, are not exactly eye-catching. These Notting Hill Brownies are high and dense and make a dramatic statement. To serve these for a party, pile brownies on a platter and dust with powdered sugar. They’re also great served with a scoop of ice cream on top and chocolate syrup or frost with Master Brownie Frosting for a rich, chocolate treat.

2 cups (4 sticks) butter, melted and cooled

2 cups granulated sugar

1 1/2 cups brown sugar, packed

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

6 eggs, lightly beaten

1 1/3 cups cocoa

2 cups unbleached flour

Scant 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups walnuts or pecans, optional

Nonstick cooking spray

* Blend melted butter with granulated sugar and brown sugar in bowl of large mixer. Add vanilla and eggs and blend well on slow speed until combined.

* Stir together cocoa, flour, baking soda and salt in separate bowl. Fold into batter and blend well, scraping bottom of mixing bowl to ensure ingredients are evenly combined, 2 to 3 minutes. Fold in nuts if using.

* Pour or spoon into 13x9-inch baking pan greased with cooking spray and lined with parchment paper. Place pan on baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until brownies are set and slightly firm but not dried out, about 35 to 40 minutes. Cool, then freeze 1 hour before cutting. To cut, unmold from baking pan. Peel off parchment paper. Cut into large blocks (about 2 1/2x3 inches). Wrap each in wax paper and keep frozen or refrigerated.

15 large brownies. Each brownie: 513 calories; 362 mg sodium; 151 mg cholesterol; 28 grams fat; 65 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 0.48 gram fiber.

Master Brownie Frosting

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Personally, when it comes to icing brownies, I waver between to-frost or not-to-frost. If I know I am going to frost or ice brownies, I tend to reduce the sugar in the recipe a bit. Here is a great buttery, fudge-like frosting that would suit many a brownie.

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

3 1/2 cups powdered sugar

1/2 cup cocoa

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 to 5 tablespoons water

* Microwave chocolate on high 1 to 2 minutes; cool.

* Blend melted chocolate, powdered sugar, cocoa, butter and vanilla on slow speed of mixer until combined. Stir in vanilla and add water as required to make spreadable consistency. Whip on higher speed to fluff.

About 5 cups. Each tablespoon: 39 calories; 12 mg sodium; 3 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.04 gram fiber.

Chewy Maple Granola Bars

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 1 hour chilling

These must be refrigerated or frozen before cutting--the chilling helps them stick together. These are dense and chewy and studded with good things. Maple extract intensifies the maple flavor but is not imperative.

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted and cooled

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup maple syrup

3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 egg

1/4 teaspoon maple extract, optional

2 cups granola

1/2 cup shredded coconut, preferably sweetened

3/4 cup chopped dates

1/3 cup raisins

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup flour

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

2/3 cup whole pecans

* Stir together butter, honey, syrup, brown sugar, vanilla, egg and maple extract. Blend in granola, coconut, dates, raisins, cinnamon, salt, flour, sesame seeds and pecans.

* Spoon into 9-inch-square baking pan lined with parchment paper. Place pan on baking sheet. Bake on lower rack of 350-degree oven until top seems set, about 20 to 25 minutes. Cool, then freeze or refrigerate about 1 hour before cutting into squares.

12 squares. Each square: 324 calories; 185 mg sodium; 38 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 42 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.70 gram fiber.

Variation: Substitute dried cranberries for dates and add 1/2 teaspoon orange oil and 2 teaspoons finely minced orange zest. Can also add 1 cup chocolate chips.

Pecan Caramel Squares

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

BOTTOM LAYER

1 cup flour

2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

* Combine flour, sugar and salt in medium bowl. Cut butter into mixture until fine and grainy. Press this crumbly mixture into lightly greased 8-inch-square pan. Bake at 350 degrees 10 minutes.

TOP LAYER

1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped pecans

1/2 cup shredded coconut (sweetened or unsweetened)

2 cups brown sugar, packed

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons flour

* Combine pecans, coconut, sugar, eggs, vanilla and flour, using wooden spoon to blend. Spread mixture over baked bottom layer. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove and cool before cutting. (Slightly chilled or semi-frozen squares cut better).

12 (2-inch) squares. Each square: 359 calories; 160 mg sodium; 56 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 50 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.31 gram fiber.

Pleasantville Deluxe Date Squares

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 40 minutes cooling

The first recipe I did in food service college (where I lasted a total of 10 days) was date squares. They took six hours. At the end, the teacher held them up and inquired, “Now, are these suitable to serve doctors and nurses at a hospital social?” Yikes! I high-tailed right out of food service college and into hotel school to become a pastry chef. I never did escape date squares. In the old days, these were called Matrimonial Squares. The trick to making these look spectacular is to cut them large and serve them chilled. They are large, chewy and dense: quite deluxe. These are more than suitable to serve anywhere, with espresso, a jug of sun tea or a huge class of chilled milk. As cake diva Maida Heatter says in many a recipe, “They are just plain good.”

2 1/2 cups pitted dates (about 1 1/4 pounds)

1 2/3 cups light brown sugar, packed

1 cup water

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon orange oil, optional

1 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 cups oatmeal

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cold

* Combine dates, 2/3 cup brown sugar, water, vanilla, lemon juice and orange oil in 2-quart saucepan. Bring to simmer over medium heat. Cook until dates are softened, 1 to 3 minutes. Remove from stove and cool. Puree in food processor until smooth.

* Place flour, oatmeal, 1 cup brown sugar, baking soda, salt and cinnamon in work bowl of food processor. Pulse to combine, then add chunks of cold butter until mixture is crumbly.

* Pat 1/2 mixture into lightly greased 9-inch-square baking pan. Cover with date mixture, spreading evenly. Top with remaining crumb mixture as evenly as possible. Press down lightly.

* Place pan on baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until top is golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Cool 20 minutes then put in freezer 20 minutes before cutting into squares.

12 to 16 squares. Each of 16 squares: 327 calories; 47 mg sodium; 31 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 56 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.73 gram fiber.

Definitive Apricot Squares

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour

You could also use raspberry preserves for this recipe or apricot jam, but this homemade apricot filling is super.

FILLING

3/4 to 1 1/2 cups water

4 cups (about 1 pound) dried apricots, cut in half

2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice

1/3 cup sugar

2 to 3 drops orange oil, optional

* Combine water, apricots, lemon juice, sugar and orange oil in small saucepan. Water should just cover apricots. Heat over low heat and stir as fruit cooks and softens, 8 to 12 minutes. Add water if mixture seems to require it (water evaporates quicker than fruit softens). Remove from stove and let mixture cool completely.

* Puree mixture in food processor to make smooth paste. (May be refrigerated or frozen up to 3 months. If chilled filling is too firm, loosen from bowl by placing in microwave 1 to 2 minutes and working with fork to make it pliable.)

CRUST

2 cups flour

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon finely minced lemon zest

1 cup (2 sticks) butter

8 ounces cream cheese

1 egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

* Place flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and lemon zest in food processor and pulse to combine ingredients. Add butter and cream cheese in chunks. Pulse, then add egg and vanilla and process 1 to 3 minutes until dough sticks together. Chill 15 minutes.

ASSEMBLY

Flour for rolling

Nonstick cooking spray

1 egg white, beaten

Sugar

* On well-floured board, roll out 1/2 dough to fit 9-inch-square baking pan coated with nonstick cooking spray. Pat into place. Spread apricot filling on top.

* Roll out remaining dough to fit (rolling on floured parchment paper and then peeling off as you lay top dough down on filling). Cross hatch top lightly with paring knife, then brush with egg white and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Place on baking sheet and bake at 375 degrees until lightly browned, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool before cutting into squares.

16 squares. Each square: 319 calories; 220 mg sodium; 60 mg cholesterol; 17 grams fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1 gram fiber.