Tataki Style Sashimi

Tataki-style sashimi is fresh raw fish that’s either finely chopped or sliced very thin and seared--depending on the fish and/or the chef involved. Small fish, like Spanish mackerel, anchovies and sardines, are usually chopped; larger fish, like albacore, tuna and bonito, are seared. Ponzu, a light sauce of soy sauce, rice wine and citrus juice, is the usual accompaniment.

* Kazu: Sushi chef Kazu has a loyal following--in part due to his classical tataki-style sushi, which includes a chopped Spanish mackerel and beautifully sliced and seared albacore and tuna. The seared toro tastes just like Kobe beef! (Tataki sashimi, $9.75 to $9.95; toro is market price.) Kazu, 11440 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 763-4836.

* The Hump: Tataki-style sashimi here is chopped into tartare--try the Spanish mackerel seasoned with cilantro, sesame and kelp. Or the scallop with scallions, smelt roe, kelp and a creamy sauce. Also the tuna with cilantro, sesame, onion and garlic. (Tataki-style sashimi, $12.) The Hump, Santa Monica Airport, 3221 Donald Douglas Loop South, 3rd Floor, Santa Monica, (310) 313-0977.

* Granita: Up PCH in Malibu, chef Jennifer Naylor makes an appetizer-size tuna tataki salad with seared tuna, a spicy mustard, togarshi (hot red peppers) and a ponzu dipping sauce. (Tataki salad, $16) Granita, 23725 W. Malibu Road, Malibu Colony Plaza, Malibu, (310) 456-0488.

* Katsu on Third: At this spare, classy, dependable sushi bar, the tataki-style sashimi includes a chopped Spanish mackerel and a seared bonito; there’s also thinly sliced, seared tataki beef. (Tataki dishes, $7.50 to $9, depending on market price.) Katsu on Third, 8636 3rd St., Los Angeles, (310) 273-3605.

* R-23: The sushi chef at this tucked-away downtown sushi bar offers tataki-style Spanish mackerel that’s chopped and seasoned with scallions; a tataki-style albacore is seared! And sometimes, when it’s in stock, he’ll offer thin slices of toro very lightly seared. R-23, 923 E. 3rd St., Los Angeles, (213) 687-7178.

* Nagao: This Brentwood sushi bar is becoming known for its unusual salads, one of which is a tataki tuna salad that’s chopped seasoned tuna served with green onions, radish, avocado, asparagus and burdock root. (Tuna tataki salad, $7.50.) Nagao, 13050 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, (310) 451-7733.

* Tsukiji: Named for the great fish market in Tokyo, this terrific sushi bar offers traditional tataki-style sashimi: Spanish mackerel is chopped with green onion and ginger. The big fish--tuna, bonito, and albacore--are sliced and lightly seared. The ponzu is slightly spicy, and the portions are large enough for two. (Tataki style sashimi, $9.50.) Tsukiji, 1745 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., Gardena, (310) 323-4077.