Merry Olde Meal

Pacific Coast Highway seems an unlikely place to replicate an English country inn, so you may wonder, as the ivy-clotted gables of Five Crowns swim into view, whether this is a kitschy ‘50s-theme restaurant.

Any doubts of its quality are laid to rest once you’re inside this seven-decades-old landmark in Corona del Mar. Modeled after Ye Olde Bell, reputedly England’s oldest country inn, Five Crowns is an irresistible evocation of 18th-century-ish England. The antiques, fresh flowers and reassuring fireplace (OK, so it’s gas logs, not a wood fire) create a soothing mood.

Even the campy period dresses and mobcaps worn by the waitresses come off with a certain sincerity. Five Crowns is . . . comfy.

Happily, its attention to detail is no less exacting when it comes to the food. The place has belonged to Lawry’s the Prime Rib in Beverly Hills for 35 years, so prime rib is naturally the specialty, but the menu is impressively nuanced, with plenty to satisfy those who are less than rabidly carnivorous.

Although the menu changes seasonally, a number of items are always available. Among them is the “pride of crowns” salad. Sown with walnuts, bacon bits, Gruyere and croutons, this melange of chilled Bibb and romaine lettuces has a satisfying bite and plays over the taste buds with a nice range of notes.

There’s a sense of play at work in the salads, which are all remarkably good. The pepita salad is baby greens highlighted with crunchy pumpkin seeds; it was recently replaced in the rotation by a refreshing (and certainly surprising) spinach strawberry salad. These two seasonal salads are good examples of the easygoing creativity of this kitchen.

Among the appetizers, you should certainly order the Maryland crab cakes when available. Flecked on the inside with bits of red bell pepper, these steaming patties are mostly tender sweet crab without much filler. But they aren’t always on the menu; on one visit, I found them replaced by lobster fritters, nicely spiked with chipotle but rather overwhelmed by a heavy hush puppy-like breading.

The shrimp cocktail is four jumbo shrimp perched along the rim of a chilled martini glass. The shrimp are certainly of fine quality, but the cocktail sauce is what makes them sing. Sometimes they’re served with a tangy three-citrus mayonnaise instead or an even better tequila-citrus mayonnaise.

On the other hand, if you see shrimp salad on the menu, skip it. The bay shrimp are bland and it’s like every forgettable shrimp salad you’ve ever had. Farther down the appetizer list is a far better choice: porcini mushroom ravioli tossed with tomatoes, basil, garlic and olive oil.

After these mostly excellent starters, it’s no surprise that prime rib arrives perfectly marbled and cooked, with a lusciously springy texture somewhere between a top grade T-bone steak and good filet mignon. It’s benchmark prime rib to measure all other prime rib against, especially when you dab it with the fluffy horseradish whipped cream, which has the right amount of snap.

There are a number of prime rib cuts and you can’t go wrong with the standard Five Crowns cut. But ordering the extra-thick Henry VIII (28 ounces) isn’t a bad insurance policy for the beef lover who suspects his or her slab might be whittled down to nothing by dinner companions eager for “just a taste,” as happened to me on my first trip.

When the menu strays from prime rib, I regret to say, Five Crowns is not infallible in its treatment of red meat. There’s sliced roast leg of lamb laid over a lentil sauce--not on the menu’s permanent collection, and rightly so. There’s a certain harsh flavor in lamb and lentils, and it cancels out, making a dish that doesn’t leave much of an impression.

Seafood dishes too sometimes miss the mark. Unless you’re passionate about coconut, the coconut shrimp and scallops is an iffy choice. The seafood is well-prepared in a good risotto but packs quite a wallop of coconut.

Potato-crusted salmon has a nice sound, and the fish definitely is moist and fresh, but it’s terribly dull under its potato crust, and I’ve seen little evidence of the promised horseradish and mustard sauce.

The menu’s biggest surprise is the roast duckling, served on a compote of apples and prunes. Beneath its crackling gossamer skin lies juicy, flavorful meat, redolent of the accompanying fruit. It’s a real standout.

The quality of the desserts is mostly on par with everything else. The lemon tart is lemon meringue pie grown up and gone to finishing school, and the English trifle holds firm between layers of fresh strawberry sauce.

The wine list is impressive in variety and price range. And the service is remarkably professional, attentive and discreet; they keep track of your table without intruding on you. Best of all, nobody speaks in a Renaissance Faire-type English accent.

Five Crowns is fairly expensive. First courses (appetizers, salads) are $5 to $9. Entrees are $18 to $32. Desserts are $5 to $6.

BE THERE

Five Crowns, 3801 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar. (949) 760-0331. Reservations recommended. Appropriate attire requested.