Here’s Cream of the Crop in Southland Restaurants

Rung in with a gush of parties and champagne, the year 2000 hasn’t proven to be a banner one for restaurant-goers in search of the latest and greatest. The trend, instead, has been one of more modest neighborhood places.

Among the pick of this year’s crop:

Los Feliz got a new jazz club and restaurant, Los Feliz, (2138 Hillhurst Ave., [323] 666-8666) with sophisticated fare. In nearby Silver Lake, the Moroccan-inspired Chameau--that’s French for camel--debuted in the old Paio space at 2520 Hyperion Ave., [323] 953-1973).

In Los Angeles, La Serenata de Garibaldi reopened after a too-long hiatus with same impeccable Mexican seafood cooking (1842 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights, [323] 265-2887). And the vibrant Latin club the Conga Room opened a pan-Latin restaurant downstairs called La Boca (5364 Wilshire Blvd., [323] 938-1696). Watch out for those killer “congaritas.” Linq, a sleek Euro-Asian bistro with attitude, slipped into place on L.A.’s 3rd Street (8338 W. 3rd St., [323] 655-4555.

In West Hollywood, the old Al Capone space on Santa Monica Boulevard became Felt, a tribute to the latest decorating sensation, but closed just months later, and reopened in November as . . . Felt (take two), with new chefs and a new menu (8279 Santa Monica Blvd., [323] 822-3888). L’Arancino, Celestino Drago’s stab at Sicilian cuisine, morphed into Celestino Italian Steakhouse (8908 Beverly Blvd.; [310] 858-5777) serving Piedmontese beef and side dishes.

Even Beverly Hills got a few neighborhood restaurants. Ben Ford put Chadwick (267 S. Beverly Drive, [310] 205-9424) in the pretty cottage that once housed Chez Helene, and raises his own organic produce at a farm in the valley. Fans of Makoto Tanaka’s cooking at Chinois have been making a beeline for Mako [225 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; [310] 288-8338]. Despite the flashy Web site, Mamounia (132 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills; [310] 360-7535) turns out to be a modest Moroccan restaurant with a relaxed North African pace and homey cooking. Cafe Talesai, a more casual spinoff of the elegant Talesai (9198 Olympic Blvd., [310] 271-9345) offers a fresh take on Thai cooking.

In Pasadena, Pause, a $6-million combination restaurant and museum, came and went in a matter of months. Let’s hope Cayo (39 S. El Molino Ave.; [626] 396-1800), next to the Pasadena Playhouse, is here to stay. Claud Beltran’s French-California cooking is an asset to the dining scene there. Not far away, the Shanghai import Din Tai Fung Dumpling House (1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, [626] 574-7068) has people lining up for its chicken soup and hand-pleated dumplings.

In Studio City, Emmanuel (11929 Ventura Blvd., [818] 766-3128) from former JoeJoe’s chef and partner, Thomas Munoz, has just opened its doors. Meanwhile, across the street, Restaurant Katsu (11920 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, [818] 760-4585) is turning out austerely traditional sushi.

In West L.A., HamaSaku (11043 Santa Monica Blvd., [310] 479-7636) has a whimsical take on the sushi genre. If loud and lively is what you’re after, both El Dorado (11777 San Vicente Blvd.; [310] 207-0150), with its long list of tequilas and appetizers, or Mojo at the W Hotel (930 Hilgard Ave., Westwood, [310] 208-8765), with its colorful Caribbean menu, should fill the bill.

And in Larchmont, Scooter Kanfer, an alum of Hollywood Hills Coffee Shop, officially launched The House this week (5750 Melrose Ave.; [323] 462-4687). Think pan-fried chicken and cookies and milk.

What about Josie (2424 Pico Blvd.; [310] 581-9888) in Santa Monica? The latest word is that Josie LeBalch may open before year’s end. Keep your fingers crossed.