The Cook’s Holiday

Here’s a dinner party menu with the cook’s convenience in mind: braised veal shanks and a dessert of simple sundaes with apple cider sauce and candied walnuts.

The veal shanks can be done ahead and frozen (thaw them overnight in the refrigerator). Even the candied walnuts freeze well, while the apple cider sauce can be made up to a week ahead and refrigerated. Serve with rice and a simple vegetable.

You can certainly make this menu the same day you serve it, but the veal shanks improve by being made at least two days ahead for the flavors to meld. This is a dinner that the cook can really enjoy.

Braised Veal Shanks in Smothered Onions

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 1/2 hours

3 tablespoons flour

1 teaspoon ground thyme

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

6 (1/2-pound) bone-in veal shanks, about 1 1/2 inches thick

4 slices bacon

2 tablespoons oil

2 cups thinly sliced onions

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 cup thinly sliced leek (white part only)

2 (1-pound) packages frozen small onions

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1 cup low-sodium beef broth

1/3 cup Marsala wine

* Combine flour, thyme, salt and pepper to taste in large plastic food bag. Shake to mix. Add shanks in batches; shake to coat shanks lightly but evenly, then set aside. Add any leftover flour mixture to shallow roasting pan, baking dish or casserole just large enough to hold shanks in single layer.

* Cook bacon in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until crispy, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to blot. When cool enough to handle, crumble bacon. Pour off bacon fat. Add 1 tablespoon oil to same pan. Heat over medium-high heat. When hot, brown veal shanks without crowding them (in 2 batches if necessary) on both sides, about 6 minutes total. Transfer shanks to prepared roasting pan.

* Add remaining oil to pan. Cook onions, garlic and leek until onions are soft, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in 1 package frozen small onions and crumbled bacon. Spoon onion mixture over and in between shanks.

* Add chicken and beef broth and wine to same pan, stirring to release any bits that may have stuck to pan; bring to a boil and pour over shanks and onions.

* Bake at 375 degrees, covered (with lid or foil) for 1 3/4 hours. If too dry, add some water. Scatter remaining frozen onions over shanks. Bake, still covered, until meat is fork tender, about 45 minutes longer. Serve immediately, or cool at room temperature, then refrigerate at least 2 days. (Can also be frozen up to 1 month, covered airtight.) Bring to room temperature before reheating. To serve, reheat, covered, in 300-degree oven until hot, about 45 to 60 minutes. Add water if too dry. Taste and adjust seasoning.

4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 388 calories; 384 mg sodium; 168 mg cholesterol; 12 grams fat; 23 grams carbohydrates; 44 grams protein; 4.12 grams fiber.

Apple Cider Ice Cream Sundaes With Candied Walnuts

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

The sauce, slightly tart, is also delicious over gingerbread and rice pudding.

CANDIED WALNUTS

3 tablespoons apple cider

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup walnut pieces

* Place cider in small, heavy saucepan. Add sugar. Use your finger to stir sugar into cider. Heat over medium-high heat until boiling and sugar dissolves, stirring 1 to 2 times. Cook, without stirring, until dark amber (like an old penny), about 4 to 5 minutes. If syrup colors unevenly, gently swirl pan to mix. Remove from heat. Stir in walnuts. Use fork to lift nuts out of syrup and place on baking sheet lined with buttered parchment paper or foil. If syrup becomes too thick or hard to transfer nuts as indicated, gently reheat syrup over low heat until nuts can be removed easily. Repeat this process as needed. Cool completely. Place in airtight tin and freeze until serving time. (Can be frozen up to 1 month.)

APPLE CIDER SAUCE

1 quart apple cider

* Heat cider in large skillet over high heat until boiling. Cook, uncovered, until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 20 minutes. Cool completely; refrigerate overnight and up to 1 week. Let come to room temperature before using.

ASSEMBLY

4 scoops vanilla, dulce con leche or caramel ice cream

Apple Cider Sauce

Candied Walnuts

* Place scoops of ice cream in small sundae dishes. Spoon sauce over, dividing evenly. Sprinkle with candied walnuts. Serve immediately.

4 servings. Each serving: 510 calories; 69 mg sodium; 30 mg cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 89 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1 gram fiber.