Nurses’ Strike to End Today With Sides Still Far Apart

I admit to having certain preconceptions about chain restaurants. I envision the recipes being designed by computers and the food itself getting processed, packaged to the milligram and frozen by robots in a food factory somewhere. From there, I figure, it’s shipped to the restaurant branches to be microwaved by kitchen crews that aren’t much more than a bunch of robots themselves.

But the newly opened California Cafe in the Shops at Mission Viejo has forced me to reconsider. California Cafe exemplifies an encouraging new breed of chain restaurant that delivers high-quality food at restrained prices. And its chef is obviously allowed some room to breathe.

The attractive, imaginative room is a big space done up in a futuristic style suggesting a Japanese version of “The Jetsons.” Softly lit by funky doughnut-shaped lights, it’s a cavern of amber hues and earth tones, deftly partitioned by contoured wood blocks mounted on iron posts which vaguely suggesting medieval watchtowers in miniature. At the entrance, a handsome glass sculpture separates the entrance from the main dining area.

One thing worth mentioning: Though the energy level is high, the acoustic design of the place keeps it from being hideously loud. Instead of din, the place has atmosphere.

And speaking of atmosphere, if you’re not driving, start with one of the generous cocktails. Martinis are emphasized here.

The menu pretty much covers the world’s culinary map but with a certain preference for Asian influences that we’re used to seeing around here. It ranges from sushi to sandwiches, from pizzas to seafood, and the delivery in every category is fairly consistent.

There are a number of pleasing appetizers. One is the cornmeal crisp calamari, served in a mountainous portion with a side of mild lemony aioli. The use of popcorn breading instead of flour rather crowds out the flavor of the seafood, but it makes for a pleasingly crunchy textural experience.

The ahi tuna tower is more nuanced. It’s a bit misnamed, because it’s built more like a hockey puck than a tower, but it’s good. The bottom floor is a layer of rice, topped with a layer of avocado and finally tiny pieces of ahi, bound with a nice ginger-infused cream.

I particularly like the chicken spring roll. Pan fried rather than deep fried, its wonton wrapper has a pleasing dumpling-like texture, and the chicken and vegetable filling, enhanced by a tangy mango barbecue sauce, is satisfyingly crunchy. It comes with a sweet-sour “coleslaw” of jicama and watermelon.

The star of the sushi department is the California platter, containing sashimi, nigiri sushi and California rolls. Considering the size of the serving, it’s a pretty good deal (the market price the night I tried it was $22.95). Though more than one in my party thought the fish were rather irregularly carved, nobody complained about their flavor. The shrimp were plump and flavorful, the fish buttery and fresh, and the rolls succulent.

When it comes to entrees, there are notable failings in the beef department. When we ordered the center cut filet mignon rare, it came medium, and the promised lobster butter was more garnish than sauce. Our blackened prime rib was also cooked more than we had ordered, and the pallid blue cheese butter didn’t do much for it. On top of all that, both cuts of beef were a bit on the tough side.

On the other hand, the crab-crusted halibut is quite good--flaky and moist, dressed with a pleasingly flowery orange-ginger beurre blanc sauce. Another good one is “chicken under a brick,” a tender half-chicken flattened by an actual brick for more efficient cooking and served on creamy mascarpone polenta. It has a fine crust and a perfume of rosemary.

For dessert, I particularly liked the lemon pastel for its firm, seductive texture and true citrus flavor. There’s also a light, dignified rendition of tiramisu. The chocolate cake has a leathery, brownie-like crust that gives way to a core of molten chocolate, and it’s covered with a vanilla glaze that plays nicely off the chocolate.

California Cafe has also started featuring Sunday brunch. Mostly the food is successful, but the restaurant hasn’t quite found its stride at brunch. The signature dish is quite good: eggs Monterey, a variation on eggs Benedict with flavorful, tightly packed crab cakes substituted for English muffins, all in hollandaise sauce.

But the highly touted banana French toast isn’t quite there. The layers of lightly battered toast alternating with a banana-apple filling don’t quite live up to their billing; when we got it, the toast was a bit mealy and we had to send it back for a warmup. (The accompanying chicken-apple sausage is excellent, though.)

The lobster scramble could have used a high note to point up the lobster flavor, which got lost in all the asparagus and chive-flecked mascarpone. I prefer the Cafe omelet of smoked chicken, asparagus and brie.

Still, it lacks a sense of pacing. Brunch deserves a leisurely, almost ceremonial tempo, and at this meal, California Cafe’s excellent service is just a little too efficient.

Full bar. Appetizers are $7.50-$12.95. Entrees are $12.95-$23.95. Desserts are $5.95.

* California Cafe, 799 The Shops at Mission Viejo, (949) 347-9333. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.