Gnocchi

These light Italian dumplings are usually made from mashed potatoes with a touch of flour. They’re tricky to do but delicious with sauces.

* Valentino: Settle down to a steaming bowl of spinach gnocchi from Chef Angelo Auriana, who stuffs his with spinach and ricotta, and tosses them in a sauce of ground walnuts, baby spinach, chicken stock, Parmesan and a drop of cream. (Gnocchi di ricotta spinaci, appetizer, $14; entree, $16.) Valentino, 3115 Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles, (310) 829-4313.

* Fresco Ristorante: The secret to the light gnocchi served here is ground porcini mushrooms in the dough; the added earthy flavor makes them irresistible. They’re served either with butter, Parmesan and sage or in a pink tomato sauce with radicchio and prosciutto. (Gnocchi con burro, parmegiano et salvia, $12; gnocchi Trevisana, $13.) Fresco Ristorante, 514 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 247-5541.

* Tuscany Il Ristorante: Two superb gnocchi appetizers are offered here: The Tuscan variety are gnocchi nudi, made of ricotta, spinach and nutmeg, and served on a bed of Gorgonzola sauce, then topped with sage butter and a sprinkling of Parmesan. The gnocchetti Piemontese are served in a meat and porcini mushroom sauce. (Florentine gnocchi, $8; gnocchetti Piemontese, $8.) Tuscany Il Ristorante, Westlake Plaza Center, 968 S. Westlake Blvd., Westlake Village, (805) 495-2768.

* Drago: Gnocchi are no longer listed on the menu, but ask and you’ll have delicious, pillowy little gnocchi with your choice of two sauces, tomato-basil or pesto, with pieces of string beans and diced potato. (Gnocchi with tomato and basil or pesto sauce, $12.) Drago, 2628 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 828-1585.

* Antonello’s: At this Orange County spot, you get a more than generous serving of gnocchi, made from Yukon gold potatoes, grated Parmesan, egg and flour, and served in a tomato sauce with shallots and mozzarella. Cheese is tossed in at the last minute, so it melts throughout the dish. (Gnocchi filanti, $14.50.) Antonello’s, South Coast Village, 1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana. (714) 751-7153.

* Ca’Brea: The fresh potato gnocchi here is served in a beef and veal sauce, tomato-based and thick with meat and fresh herbs. (Potato gnocchi in a beef and veal sauce with fresh herbs, $10.95.) Ca’Brea, 346 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 938-2863.