A Vintage Clothes Buyer Separates the Clash from the Chaff

Got any hot-pink leg warmers shoved in the sock drawer? Surprise! Evan Hughes, the 23-year-old senior buyer at the Wasteland on Melrose Avenue, wants them. His work at the vintage clothing store is intense, especially toward the end of the month, when, he points out, rents are due and sellers are out in force. Here are some highlights from a recent two-hour Saturday afternoon buying shift:

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Noon. Buying begins. Edan, a regular, is first on the list. Hughes goes through her stacks, putting nearly every item in a “yes” pile, including a Ted Nugent baseball shirt that he prices at $22 retail, a red, white and blue knit ski cap that says “Bicentennial 1776-1976” ($14) and a men’s black velour jumpsuit ($28). Edan’s net? $156.40, or 40% of retail.

12:20 p.m. Hughes tells Dave to bring his vintage Hawaiian shirts back in May. He takes the Clash T-shirt ($15), but passes on the faded Levi’s. “With Levi’s, we pretty much only take dark blue button-fly or zipper-fly bell bottoms.”

12:45 p.m. Hughes snaps up Melissa’s contemporary clothing: a black Parallel cardigan ($18) and a Rebecca Danenberg denim skirt ($35).

12:47 p.m. Someone on the phone wants to know if Wasteland buys jewelry. “Carved bakelite, vintage rhinestone necklaces and bracelets, and Mexican or Native American silver, especially with turquoise,” Hughes answers.

1 p.m. Hughes passes on Carlos’ black leather motorcycle jacket. “They don’t sell that well, unless they’re vintage.”

1:05 p.m. “We’re mostly looking for vintage ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s and contemporary designers,” Hughes explains to Ava, a first-timer. This means yes to her white BCBG skirt ($18). Her baggy navy Abercrombie & Fitch pants with orange cuffs pass muster, too ($30).

1:20 p.m. Though well-worn, Canon’s short, rust-colored suede jacket with white stitching is a yes ($38). Her ties don’t make the cut. “We want ‘40s hand-painted, ‘60s skinny or ‘80s leather.”

1:30 p.m. A guy in a baseball cap asks Hughes if he takes Hugo Boss suits. “Are the pants flat front?” They’re not. “Try Crossroads across the street. They focus on more basics.”

1:40 p.m. Hughes takes all of Angela’s killer high heels, including a pair of Jean-Paul Gaultier red snakeskin and black patent-leather scene stealers ($45).

1:59 p.m. The middle-aged couple who called earlier about jewelry show up with silver and turquoise bracelets galore. “For the big ones, I’d do $50 [retail]. For the little ones, $25.” The woman also brings in a white silk, long-sleeved blouse with a high lace collar. “Is this too normal?” she asks Hughes. “Yeah.”

2:08 p.m. His shift is over. “It’s like Christmas,” Hughes says, “or a really bad garage sale.”

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Expensive Taste

Five of the costliest items on Wasteland’s rack:

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Mandarin-style embroidered Prada dress, $335.

1920s red flapper get-up with rhinestones, $250.

Red David Bowie-inspired 8-inch platforms with yellow lightning bolts, $250.

Leather Gucci jacket, $800.

1960s Rudi Gernreich dress with transparent plastic cutouts, $500.