Saudi Vacation? Some Restrictions Apply

It could be the vacation of a lifetime--historic, forbidden, adventurous.

So don’t screw it up by acting like you’re having fun.

That’s the way it sounds to me while reading about a tour operator’s plans to take an American contingent to Saudi Arabia, previously off-limits to non-Muslim commercial tourists.

The pro-Western monarchy that rules the country apparently is loosening up a bit, and I emphasize “a bit.”

On Jan. 14, Mountain Travel-Sobek, a Bay Area “adventure company,” will take about 10 people to the desert kingdom on a 17-day tour of various historic sites.

The brochure promises a “history-making adventure” during which tourists will “visit local villages that cling precariously to the cliff sides . . . [and] Jeddah, where we visit the old city noted for its incredible architecture and prepare for our great four-wheel-drive desert expedition following T.E. Lawrence’s epic journey along the Hijaz Railway.”

Can’t wait to sign up?

First, you might want to check some of the “conditions of travel,” provided by Mountain Travel.

* The Saudi government will not issue visas to anyone under 40.

* A woman’s head must be covered by a scarf. All clothing must be loose-fitting and not show the woman’s figure.

* Men must wear long pants and collared shirts, preferably with long sleeves. No shorts, tight-fitting clothing or T-shirts may be worn by either sex.

* No religion other than Islam is permitted in the kingdom. Praying is to be done quietly and privately in your hotel room.

* No discussion of Islam and other religions.

* No reading materials should be brought into the country, including novels and magazines.

* It is forbidden to photograph women, even at a distance. Cameras will be taken out only when the guide allows. At other times, they must be kept in your bag.

* No alcohol will be available.

* Anyone exhibiting behavior deemed insulting will be asked to leave, with no refund.

It Depends on How You Define ‘Fun’

Not exactly a week on the Riviera.

But in the tourism world, this is progress. “What it says to me is that there is a curtain and it’s opened a little bit,” says Tom Jackson, president of World Travel, a family business in Orange County for 63 years but which isn’t involved in the trip. “The fact that they’re allowing people to come in is a very positive thing.”

Tom Stanley, who will conduct the trip for Mountain Travel-Sobek, says the group hopes to expand to four Saudi trips next year. “This is history-making in that the Saudis have been very protective about their society,” Stanley says. “It is a very traditional and religious-based culture that they’ve been wanting to protect. Now, on a limited basis, they’re willing to experiment with letting foreigners of different habits, cultures and religions in to see their country.”

For Americans bent on stereotyping the Arab and Muslim world, it must be noted that other Arab countries--Egypt, most notably--are much more tourist-friendly.

Moustafa Alqazwini is the imam at the Islamic Education Center of Orange County. He notes that the ruling family in Saudi Arabia is “very tough, very conservative, not only with non-Muslims, but also with Muslims.”

The Saudi kingdom is the holiest land of Islam and Alqazwini has made religious pilgrimages the last seven years. He can’t bring books or photographs with him. If anyone takes photographs, the camera most likely will be confiscated, he says.

Because Saudi Arabia’s oil-rich economy doesn’t need tourism, the ruling monarchy hasn’t cultivated it, he says. Still, Alqazwini likes the idea of Westerners broadening their cultural and historical knowledge of Islam and the Arab world.

I ask Alqazwini the key question for most American tourists: Can they have a good time?

“It depends on the person,” he says. “If they’re thinking of dancing or drinking or socializing, it won’t be a great time for them. If it’s only a historical expedition for them, yes, they might see something new, something striking. They might learn something about that society.”

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Dana Parsons’ column appears Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Readers may reach Parsons by calling (714) 966-7821 or by writing to him at the Times Orange County Edition, 1375 Sunflower Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626, or by e-mail to dana.parsons@latimes.com.