A Ration of Finesse

There’s much to be said for American ingenuity, especially when it comes to food. On the brink of the 21st century, culinary creativity abounds--from the handiwork of chocolatiers to fusion cooking to “tasting menus” that showcase choice delicacies.

But during World War II--a period of food rationing and global uncertainty--home cooks were put to the test to devise “interesting and palatable” dishes with imagination and spunk. How do you feed a family when sugar, butter, canned goods and fresh meat are in short supply?

The Share the Meat campaign, which urged people to reduce their meat consumption voluntarily, had fizzled by the fall of 1942, putting fresh meat on the ration list by March 1943. Consumers had to make do with about 2 1/2 pounds per person per week.

Soon, protein-rich macaroni and cheese was one of the most popular meatless meals. So were one-pot dishes of beans and other vegetables, inspired by household Victory Gardens reminiscent of those planted in World War I.

“When you’re looking for a main dish that will help space out the family’s meat share, consider the dry bean as a likely candidate,” suggested a Los Angeles Times food story from Jan. 31, 1943.

The recipe for Rodeo Beans that accompanied the article called for 1/2 pound bacon with pink beans, seasoned with chili powder, tomato sauce and vegetables. The flavors meld as the beans simmer, producing a tasty,

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Rodeo Beans

Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 3 hours 30 minutes, plus 8 hours soaking

4 cups dried pink beans

2 quarts water, for soaking

2 quarts water, for boiling

2 large onions, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 green bell pepper, minced

1/2 pound bacon, diced

1 (16-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 tablespoons chili powder

3 tablespoons cold water

* Rinse beans, then soak overnight in 2 quarts water. Drain. Place beans in 2 quarts fresh water and bring to boil over medium-high heat, 10 minutes. Add onions, garlic, bell pepper, bacon, tomato sauce, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer 2 hours. Uncover and simmer 30 minutes.

* Mix chili powder and cold water into smooth paste in small bowl and add to beans. Simmer 30 minutes more.

12 servings. Each serving: 191 calories; 764 mg sodium; 12 mg cholesterol; 8 grams fat; 22 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 1.60 grams fiber.

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Plate and bowl from Gene Autry Museum of Western Heritage, Los Angeles, and Roy Rogers-Dale Evans Museum, Victorville.