Lots of Fun and Nuevo Latino Fare at La Boca del Conga Room

After a pre-holiday opening, when most nights were reserved for private parties, La Boca del Conga Room--literally, the “mouth” of the Conga Room, the restaurant attached to L.A.’s Latin club on Wilshire Boulevard, is in full swing. To open the tropical-themed restaurant, the club’s owners (who include actors Jimmy Smits and Jennifer Lopez, comedian Paul Rodriguez and musician Sheila E.) brought in Eric Basulto as chef. His resume includes stints at Douglas Rodriguez’s Patria in New York and at the always-mobbed Asia de Cuba, also in Manhattan.

What La Boca brings to the L.A. dining scene is a big dose of fun--and a menu of inventive and vibrant Nuevo Latino fare. Everybody here is dressed to party: A parade of hipsters, interestingly both young and older, decked out in leopard coats, lame and sheer wisps of dresses, pauses at the maitre d’s station on the way to a table. Don’t even think about showing up without a reservation.

The music is loud and festive, and though the sound level is high, the effect is invigorating. At last, someplace that feels like a destination. People are ordering mojitas (that wicked Cuban concoction of rum, sugar cane, lime and mint) right and left. The bar also makes a terrific margarita with Sauza tequila and fresh lime, here called a congarita.

All the entradas, or appetizers, with the exception of the tuna ceviche, are generous to a fault. Steamed mussels come in a guajillo chili saffron broth punctuated with charred garlic chips. Fried calamari adorns a salad of baby arugula and avocado dressed in spicy chili oil. There’s a nice lobster empanada and an Ecuadorian-style tamale, too.

Somebody at the table has to order the pollo adobado, a herb-roasted chicken in a citrus mojo sauce, or the rib-eye with a custardy tamal and oxtail “mermelada.” Vegetarians get a version of chile rellenos stuffed with vegetables and mozzarella in a smoked tomato sauce. It’s tasty stuff. Hey, and for sides, you can order boniato mash made from the South American white sweet potato, or toothsome yuca fries.

From now through March 31, the Conga Room upstairs is offering free admission with dinner at La Boca, with the exception of those evenings when national acts or special events are scheduled.

Go on, sashay on up to the club. Hitting that dance floor is as good a way as any to work off all that food.

BE THERE

La Boca del Conga Room, 5370 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 938-1696. Entradas $6.50 to $15; platos principales $15 to $22. Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner. Valet parking.