Northern Light

It should be no surprise that San Fernando harbors a serious Mexican restaurant like Graciana’s. Or hides it, rather--this charming little place at the north end of town, practically in Sylmar, is tucked away behind a Food 4 Less Market. (Use the driveway beside the Burger King on Glenoaks Boulevard.)

The first clue that it’s out of the ordinary is the dining room decor, which is suave Southwestern-style paintings and pottery, rather than serapes or posters of Aztec kings. Then look at the menu. Alongside obligatory Cal-Mex dishes you’ll find regional Mexican specialties from Yucatan and Tampico.

One of the best appetizers is queso fundido con chorizo, a melted cheese dip with tiny bits of sausage. The meatball soup (albondigas) has a flavorful, slightly tomatoey broth.

My favorite entree, when available, is cochinita pibil, a Yucatan-style dish of pork marinated with annatto, lime juice and spices, baked in a banana leaf and served with plain boiled beans and fried plantain. It’s aromatic and ultra-tender, a true delight.

Chile relleno casero takes a fairly classic Mexican favorite and ratchets it up a notch or two. It’s a slightly hot pasilla chile stuffed with chopped steak instead of the usual cheese. After being fried in a light egg batter and finished in the oven, this glorious chile is topped with a light fresh tomato sauce.

Camarones al mojo de ajo are plump shrimp sauteed in a light garlic sauce, wonderful over Mexican rice. There is also a fine carne tampiquena, a butterflied New York steak stuffed with peppers, tomatoes, ham and spices, wrapped in bacon and drizzled with a spicy red sauce. (But you don’t get the cheese-stuffed chile relleno that comes standard with this dish in Mexico.)

The huge menu includes grilled snapper, fish tacos, guacamole, chile verde and much more. The restaurant even serves a Sunday brunch. Two of the best choices are huevos con chilaquiles, toasted tortilla strips cooked with eggs, chorizo and salsa fresca; and machaca, scrambled eggs with shredded beef. Everything comes with hot pastry puffs (bunuelos) dusted with sugar and cinnamon.

Graciana’s has only a beer and wine license, but its wine-based strawberry and peach margaritas are refreshing. It also brews a decent cup of coffee and serves fresh orange juice, squeezed to order.

BE THERE

Graciana’s, 2006 Glenoaks Boulevard, San Fernando. Open Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Beer and wine only. Parking lot. American Express, Discover, MasterCard and Visa. Dinner for two, $18-$29. Suggested dishes: chorizo con queso fundido, $3.95, cochinita pibil, $7.95; chile relleno casero, $6.95; huevos con chilaquiles, $6.50. call (818) 365-0635.