The Soys of Summer: Tofu

Last August, I arrived in New York during a heat wave. After a long day of travel and traffic, I was hungry but too hot to have much of an appetite. I walked to a Japanese restaurant across the street from my hotel, seeking an easy venture requiring little energy.

Once settled inside the cool of the restaurant, I scanned the menu and found the perfect dish for this day: cubes of exquisitely tender, fresh tofu floating in ice water, accompanied with a dark dipping sauce of soy, green onions and ginger. The cool tofu with its grace note of pungent sauce was the perfect dish--nourishing, light and delicious. When done eating, I felt truly refreshed.

While we know that tofu can simmer nicely in winter braises and curries, be seared in a pan or tossed in a stir-fry, many of us might be less acquainted with what tofu can accomplish in the summer kitchen.

Cool and smooth, tofu is a natural for hot weather as it requires little, if any, cooking. It can disappear with ease into smoothies and herb-infused sauces and dressings, but it also does well as a salad ingredient, especially when served with lively dressings based on ginger, garlic, soy, sesame or peanut.

When it comes to using tofu in summer salads, my preference is for soft or silken tofu packed in water. Soft tofu is strong enough to handle without breaking, but tender enough to be pleasing on the tongue.

Japanese and other Asian brands marked “regular” or “firm” (rather than soft) are tender enough to use in salads, especially if they’re poached first. I would definitely avoid extra-firm, which is too coarse for these recipes. Extra-firm tofu is better for grilling or crumbling into a skillet.

Tofu is often used as a substitute for mayonnaise or soft cheeses. I never use tofu as a complete replacement for more familiar ingredients. Rather, I use it to stretch those ingredients. Tofu is neutral enough that a few tablespoons of sour cream, yogurt or mayonnaise (instead of, say, a half-cup or more) will convey the tang and flavor of those ingredients and make the resulting dish so familiar that it’s not in the least bit suspect.

The herb-laced sauce for the poached fish, for example, is one I’ve served innumerable times to guests who never guessed that there was tofu present.

Similarly, tofu works well in smoothies, where there are plenty of flavorful ingredients present--yogurt, fresh fruit, fruit juices, espresso, peanut butter, bananas, chocolate, even ice cream.

When it comes to using tofu in sauces and smoothies, the smoother and softer the tofu, the better it will work, which means that silken tofu is ideal. The food processor will take it from a cube to a silken creamy puree in moments. Just be sure to stop the machine and scrape down the sides a few times to make sure it’s completely pureed.

When you can, use tofu packed in water that you find refrigerated in the produce or dairy section rather than the aseptic variety, which doesn’t need to be refrigerated. The flavor of aseptically packed tofu can be improved by simmering it briefly in salted water before using in a salad.

For best results, when using tofu, be scrupulous about using tofu before its expiration date, and try to use it at least a few days before that. In my experience, the expiration date takes tofu dangerously close to the outer limits of freshness.

Certainly, the success of the dish that I enjoyed in the Japanese restaurant depended greatly on the quality of the tofu which, as you might expect, was impeccably fresh and delicate--which is how tofu should be. Always.

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Madison is the author of “This Can’t Be Tofu!” (Broadway, $15).

Tofu and Nappa Cabbage With Sesame Dressing

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes * Vegetarian

For this salad, I gently simmer the tofu in salted water first. It firms the tofu so that it won’t just fall apart when tossed. I’ve kept it simple, but you could add any number of vegetables to this salad. Some of my favorites are thinly sliced snow peas, kohlrabi, daikon and radish.

SESAME DRESSING

1 tablespoon minced ginger root

1 large clove garlic, chopped

1 large jalapeno, seeded and chopped

4 teaspoons sesame paste or tahini

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

1 tablespoon light sesame or vegetable oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1/2 teaspoon granulated or light brown sugar, to taste

3 tablespoons chopped cilantro

3 tablespoons chopped basil

1 tablespoon chopped mint

* Puree ginger, garlic, jalapeno, sesame paste, dark and light sesame oils, soy sauce, vinegar and sugar in small food processor or blender until smooth. Stir in cilantro, basil and mint and pulse or puree briefly.

TOFU

12 ounces soft or silken tofu, drained

6 cups water

Salt

5 cups thinly slivered nappa cabbage

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and finely diced

1 tablespoon toasted black and/or white sesame seeds

* Dice tofu into pieces about size of sugar cubes. Bring water to simmer in a deep skillet, add 1 teaspoon salt, then ease tofu into pan. Simmer 2 minutes, then remove. Let cool on towel.

* Toss cabbage with half Sesame Dressing, then arrange on platter or on 4 individual plates. Arrange tofu and cucumber on top of cabbage and spoon remaining dressing over them. Garnish with sesame seeds. Toss just before serving.

4 servings. Each serving: 260 calories; 353 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 18 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 1.69 grams fiber.

Cilantro-Sesame Dressing

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes * Low-fat

If you’re a cilantro lover, you could find yourself using this everywhere--on sandwiches, spread over seared tofu or grilled fish and definitely with grilled or steamed vegetables, such as eggplant and zucchini. It works amazingly well as a dip for vegetables or a spread for sesame crackers. Toss it with slivered cabbage for an unusual slaw. It will keep, refrigerated, for about one week.

4 ounces silken or soft tofu, well drained

1/2 jalapeno, seeded and chopped

Zest and juice of 1/2 large lime

3 tablespoons sour cream

1 teaspoon roasted sesame oil

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1 green onion, including 1 inch of green portion, sliced

Salt

White pepper

2 teaspoons snipped chives

* Combine tofu, jalapeno, lime zest and juice, sour cream and oil in small food processor and puree until smooth, stopping several times to scrape down sides. Add cilantro and green onion and puree just enough to make a flecked pale green sauce. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Scrape into serving bowl and sprinkle with chives.

3/4 cup. Each tablespoon: 25 calories; 28 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 0.06 gram fiber.

Poached Salmon and Potato Salad With Fresh Herb Sauce

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 1 hour chilling

The tofu disappears into the sauce, and even friends who approach tofu with firm suspicion never guess that it’s here. This herb-laced sauce is not only perfect for chilled salmon and steamed summer potatoes, it’s also friendly to a host of other dishes, such as warm flageolet beans, green beans, romaine salads and vegetable slaws. You can take it right through the seasons of your herb garden, replacing the dill with marjoram, lovage, chervil, tarragon and lemon thyme.

1 (12- to 16-ounce) salmon filet, skin on

Salt

1 pound small boiling potatoes

1 bunch watercress

Snipped chives, for garnish

* Rinse salmon. Place in large skillet, cover with cold water and add a heaping tablespoon of salt. Bring water to boil then turn off heat and let stand 25 minutes. Remove skin from salmon and refrigerate, covered, at least 1 hour.

* Close to serving, scrub potatoes, cut in half lengthwise and steam over boiling water until tender when pierced with a knife, 25 to 35 minutes.

* To serve, flake salmon onto 4 plates, add potatoes and intersperse with clumps of watercress. Spoon a little sauce over salmon and potatoes and garnish with chives. Serve remaining sauce on side.

SAUCE

6 ounces silken or soft tofu

1/2 cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoons sour cream or mayonnaise

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/3 cup finely chopped fresh dill

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons finely snipped chives

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

Chive blossoms, optional

* Puree tofu in food processor or blender with yogurt, sour cream and oil until smooth. Scrape down sides; add lemon zest, juice, dill and garlic and process again until smooth and pale green.

* Scrape into bowl and stir in all but a few chives. Taste for salt and season with pepper. Wipe bowl so that it looks neat, sprinkle remaining chives and chive blossoms, if using, over top. Cover and chill at least 1 hour. Makes about 1 cup.

4 servings. Each serving with 2 tablespoons sauce: 359 calories; 254 mg sodium; 56 mg cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 27 grams carbohydrates; 32 grams protein; 1.03 grams fiber.

Spinach and Sesame Tofu Salad With Pickled Ginger

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 45 minutes * Vegetarian

A cool but intense little salad, good for an evening first course or light lunch for two. Look for pickled ginger at sushi counters in well-stocked supermarkets.

DRESSING:

2 teaspoons dry mustard

1 tablespoon water

4 teaspoons dark sesame oil

2 tablespoons soy sauce

4 teaspoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon Sherry or rice wine

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger root

1/2 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon sugar

* Combine dry mustard, water, oil, soy sauce, vinegar, Sherry, salt, ginger, garlic and sugar in bowl. Set aside. Makes 1/2 cup.

ASSEMBLY

1 bunch (about 1 pound) spinach

Salt

6 ounces soft or silken tofu, drained

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, black and/or white

1 heaping tablespoon slivered, pickled ginger

* Fill wide skillet with water and bring to boil. Wash spinach well, discarding stems and any yellow or bruised leaves. Reserve 8 of the crowns (the stems that are joined at the roots) and wash them too. Cut tofu into small cubes.

* When water boils, add 1 teaspoon salt and spinach. Cook just until wilted, turning it a few times with tongs, then lift spinach into strainer and rinse under cool water. Set aside. Add crowns to pan, cook about 15 seconds, then remove and rinse. Turn off heat and slide tofu into water. Let sit 1 minute, then remove onto paper towels to dry.

* Roast sesame seeds in small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.

* Squeeze water out of spinach and chop, neither too fine nor too coarsely. Set in bowl and toss with 3 tablespoons dressing and about two-thirds sesame seeds. Taste and add more dressing, if desired. Distribute spinach among 4 small plates, then place tofu around and on top. Spoon more dressing over tofu, then garnish with slivered, pickled ginger and remaining sesame seeds. Place 2 spinach crowns on each plate and serve.

4 servings. Each serving: 186 calories; 1,046 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 12 grams protein; 1.42 grams fiber.