1997 Renato Ratti Villa Pattono, Monferrato (Piedmont), Italy

Here’s a polished blend of Barbera with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, made in the heart of Barbera country. The Cabernet gives the exuberant Barbera some structure and the Merlot fleshes out its bright, hard acidity. Scented with cedar and the color of dark cherries, it’s delicious drinking now; just be sure not to serve it too warm.

In the last few years, the wines of this historic Barolo producer have dramatically improved as Pietro Ratti, the late Renato Ratti’s son, has come into his own. This bottling reflects the change in style not only in this winery but in Piedmont in general, as a younger generation steps up to the plate.

About $22. Available at Mission Wines in South Pasadena (626) 403-9463; Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454; J & H Liquors in Santa Monica (310) 396-4452; Pasadena Wine Merchants (626) 396-9234; and San Diego Wine Co (858) 535-1400. If you can’t find this wine, have your retailer call Diamond Wine Merchants, (510) 547-7766.