Niagara’s Second Act

This quiet and beautifully preserved 19th century village on Lake Ontario would be worth a visit just for its atmosphere: very Canadian-British in sensibilities, American in history and language. But it’s also a destination for theater lovers, with its May-through-November Shaw Festival.

Theater sets this Niagara apart from tourist magnet Niagara Falls, 20 miles down the road. And theater is what first brought me here in the early 1990s when I was writing a book on the subject, and a few times since.

The town’s quiet charm was enough of a draw for me last spring, when I simply needed a break. Although the festival was a month away, warmup productions were onstage in two of the three theaters.

This is no straw-hat, summer-stock endeavor. The theater company says it is one of the largest in North America, with professionals onstage and behind the scenes.

The festival has its roots in amateur weekend productions that began in 1962 in a renovated corner of the old local courthouse. The unpromising early plan to perform only the works of George Bernard Shaw (a festival organizer was a great admirer of the playwright) was later revised to include works of his “contemporaries.” Fortunately, Shaw had a long life (1856-1950), and the period includes Noel Coward, Henrik Ibsen, Bertolt Brecht, Thornton Wilder and Oscar Wilde.

This year the festival will present 11 works in repertory in three theaters; with good planning, one can see almost all of them in a week. (Shows include Shaw’s “The Doctor’s Dilemma,” Coward’s “Still Life,” Wilder’s “The Matchmaker,” Virginia Woolf’s “A Room of One’s Own” and Nigel Williams’ adaptation of William Golding’s book “Lord of the Flies.”)

Since my last visit I had almost forgotten just how special this place is. In my four-day stay I often felt as though I had been plunked down on a movie set, it was that perfect. The shops were quaint, the inns lavish and the streets so tidy that even the trash barrels--wood, to blend in with the decor--were free of litter.

Accommodations run from cozy cottages to chintz-flounced B&Bs; to authentic period inns that would make Martha Stewart weep with joy.

On this visit I stayed at Queen’s Landing Inn, my favorite, a 143-room Georgian hotel on the lakefront. Most of its guest rooms have fireplaces, and many have canopy beds and whirlpool tubs. The rooms are individually decorated and furnished with eclectic antiques and lush fabrics. In style, there is a decided affection for the Queen Anne period.

When I entered my room, I sank onto the king-size canopied bed, bowled over by the lap of luxury I found myself in. Everything--draperies, bedding, the upholstery on the sofa and wing chair, the lamp and table skirt--was color-coordinated in soft shades of gold, rose, green and cream. The entertainment center was hidden in a cherrywood armoire, and a plush robe hung in the roomy bathroom stocked with upscale toiletries. I felt like a princess, but thanks to my choice of a weekday in off-season, the room cost me only $108; on a summer or fall Saturday night, it is $220.

It was after 3 p.m. when I checked in, and I still hadn’t had lunch. But not much was cooking in town at that time of day. That’s how I ended up at the Buttery, a Queen Street landmark that on weekends puts on a “Henry VIII feast,” complete with “serving wenches” in period garb. Though it’s highly congenial, with a cozy interior and wonderful outdoor veranda, I’ve never had a good meal there. This day was no exception. My grilled lobster sandwich ($7.75) turned out to be a dreary cold lobster salad with too much dressing served on cold wheat toast.

After lunch, a lazy walk around town confirmed my impression that not much had changed since my last visit four years ago. There were a few new shops and restaurants, but things felt comfortably the same.

Queen Street, the town’s pretty main thoroughfare, offers six blocks of quaint shops, inns and restaurants reminiscent of a scene from a period movie. A stroll along this picturesque street will reveal the Niagara Apothecary, a unique example of an 1800s pharmacy, with exquisite walnut fixtures, crystal pieces and a rare collection of apothecary glasses. Also in the heart of the area is the Angie Strauss Gallery, selling the work of the local watercolorist. Next door is Angie Strauss Fashions, featuring women’s clothes designed by the home-grown artist.

As I wandered through the shops, I was once again struck by what a feel-good place this is. How can you not feel lighthearted when there’s a Silly Old Bear Shop, a year-round Christmas Shop, an Angel Treasures Shop (a “store for the soul” with 4,000 angels in stock) and a fudge factory? There’s also homemade ice cream and pie in another shop.

After my unfortunate lunch, I took no chances that evening. Ristorante Giardino, my favorite restaurant here, more than satisfied me with grilled shrimp over salad greens, homemade spaghetti with tomato basil sauce, tiramisu and a glass of wine, all for $32. As always, the food was outstanding.

The next morning I stopped at the Epicurean, a pleasant cafe with casual appeal, to see whether the homemade muffins were as good as I remembered. (They are.)

Over a second cup of coffee, I studied a brochure for the Pillar and Post Inn’s spa, trying to decide which treatment I should try. The Dead Sea Mineral Mud Wrap did not sound appealing. The Swedish full-body massage, with its promise to produce deep relaxation, was tempting, but the warm muffin had already accomplished that. So I went for a walk.

Everything for visitors to the festival--theaters, hotels, restaurants, shops--is within walking distance, so there’s no need for a car. (There’s bus service from the Toronto and Buffalo, N.Y., airports; see Guidebook. The bus line also runs tours to Niagara Falls, Ontario wine country and other attractions.)

My walk took me past grand mansions set back on emerald lawns and tiny cottages with white picket fences and gardens in early bloom. I also passed picturesque graveyards and remembered how unsettling I found them on my first visit: One night back then, as I was walking from my hotel to dinner, I found myself on a street with a cemetery on each side. It was dark, and there was no one around, just hundreds of tombstones and me. I planned my route more carefully the next few days. But eventually I grew comfortable with the graveyards that dot the town, and I came to feel that they complete it. There’s beauty in the way past and present are so naturally intertwined here.

And Niagara has a bit of a past.

Situated on an isthmus between lakes Ontario and Erie, across from New York state, Niagara had something of a boom when Loyalists moved in, fleeing the War of Independence in the Colonies. In 1797 the British built Ft. George, which the Americans held during the War of 1812. Since then, the only invasion of any size has been that of tourists to Niagara Falls.

I walked across town for lunch at the Angel Inn, the oldest operating inn in Ontario province. Its hand-hewn beams and timbers date from nearly two centuries ago, when the inn was called the Harmonious Coach House. In 1813, retreating American soldiers set fire to the town, and the inn was badly burned.

Today the stucco walls, exposed beams, scarred plank floors and cozy fireplaces reflect its antiquity and create the warm ambience of a countryside inn of long ago. You can dine here on traditional pub grub or on old-fashioned continental dishes such as steak Diane and chicken cordon bleu. While my lunch was nothing to shout about, the Angel Inn itself is delightful and not to be missed.

Then it was on to the Royal George Theatre for a special matinee, sort of a pre-preview, of “Time and the Conways,” by J.B. Priestley, a 1930s British blend of family drama and a dash of occult philosophy.

That evening I had dinner at Fan’s Court, a Chinese restaurant. There were no evening performances that week, and everything in town closed early. Walking back to the hotel after 9 p.m., I was the only one out and about.

The next day was gray and unpromising. After a brisk walk along the mist-covered river around the marina, I browsed through a few galleries and bookstores, then went to the Oban Inn for a light lunch before the theater.

In 1992 I fell in love with this wonderful old place, built around 1824 for a sea captain from Oban, Scotland. It burned on Christmas Day 1992 and was rebuilt and reopened in November 1993 with its former charms intact. It also has one of the prettiest settings in town, overlooking Lake Ontario and the fairways of the Niagara-on-the-Lake Golf Course.

That day’s play, “Easy Virtue,” was enjoyable, even though I’ve seen this Coward gem before.

My reverie was shattered when I reached the theater exit and found that the gray, misty day had given way to a torrential downpour and violent thunderstorm. My umbrella was no match for its fury, and by the time I had walked the three blocks to the hotel, I was drenched.

Later, after a soak in the tub, wrapped in a thick terry-cloth robe, I viewed the storm as a gift: permission to do nothing. Comfortably propped in my high king-size canopy bed with its wonderful feather tick and with a fire crackling in the fireplace, I watched the rain over the yacht harbor and contemplated the pleasures of room service and a good book.

In the morning, when I had breakfast at Tiara, the hotel’s award-winning restaurant, I had a twinge of regret that I hadn’t gotten dressed the night before and come down for dinner.

Set over two levels to expand its wonderful view of the harbor, Tiara is pretty, with an elegant fireplace and lavish floral displays.

I spent the morning shopping, then went to the Prince of Wales for lunch. This splendid 1864 hotel recently underwent a huge restoration, making it the town’s showplace of the moment. Its Escabeche Restaurant is a real showstopper, a lavishly decorated tribute to everything Victorian that stops just short of being over the top. The softer Drawing Room, where lighter fare is served, suited me fine.

After lunch, while waiting for my ride to the airport, I took a quick walk to my favorite place in the park, near the gazebo. It had been a gloomy morning, but now the sun was out, promising a near-perfect spring afternoon. No one else was around, and I stood there awhile admiring the tranquil beauty around me. Suddenly I was aware that someone was standing beside me, almost shoulder to shoulder. I turned and found an elderly man looking out at the same river view I had been admiring.

“Nice, isn’t it?” he said, smiling.

“Very nice,” I replied, remembering that places of beauty are best appreciated when shared.

GUIDEBOOK

Falling for Niagara-on-the-Lake

Getting there: The nearest major airports are at Toronto and at Buffalo, N.Y. From Los Angeles, Air Canada flies nonstop to Toronto. There’s connecting service (one change of plane) to Toronto and Buffalo on American, United, Continental, Northwest and US Airways. Round-trip fare starts at $420 to Toronto, $664 to Buffalo.

Niagara Airbus provides transportation from both airports (Toronto, two hours; Buffalo, 50 minutes). One-way fare from either is about $36. Telephone (905) 374-8111, Internet https://www.niagaraairbus.com.

Seeing plays: Shaw Festival tickets cost $17 to $50 and can be ordered by telephone at (800) 511-7429 or by fax at (905) 468-3804; Internet https://www.shawfest.sympatico.ca.

Where to stay: Contact Vintage Inns, tel. (800) 361-6788, Internet https://www.vintageinns.com for rooms at Queen’s Landing Inn, a Georgian-style mansion overlooking the Niagara River; Oban Inn, with 22 guest rooms, some with lake views; Prince of Wales Hotel, a 108-room restored Victorian landmark in the heart of town; and Pillar and Post Inn and Spa, 123 rooms with rustic elegance. Midweek rates through Oct. 31 start at $132; typical rate for July and August is $220. Ask about packages and promotions.

Gate House Hotel, 142 Queen St., Ontario L0S 1J0, is a perfect break from the town’s Victoriana. Rates start at $130. Tel. (905) 468-3263, fax (905) 468-7400, Internet https://www.gatehouse-niagara.com.

The Chamber of Commerce’s reservation service is free. Tel. (905) 468-4263, Internet https://www.niagaraonthelake.com.

Where to eat: Ristorante Giardino, Gate House Hotel (contact information above). My favorite restaurant in town, where the Italian fare runs about $40 per person, excluding wine.

The Epicurean, 84 Queen St., tel. 468-3408. Serves quiche, salads, pastas and sandwiches for lunch; entrees $4 to $7.

Prince of Wales Hotel, 6 Picton St., tel. 468-3246. Afternoon tea, $20 to $26. The dining room, Escabeche, serves French fare; entrees $25 to $35.

For more information: Canadian Tourism Commission, 550 S. Hope St., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90071; tel. (213) 346-2700, Internet https://www.canadatourism.com.