A Raft of Pleasure

The only way you could feel more at home at the Raft Cafe is if the server asked you to wash the dishes. Don’t worry, she won’t. Sit back and enjoy the view of Newport Harbor and a delicious brunch on this comfortable patio on Balboa Peninsula.

The Raft is a little-known spot that has been a restaurant under various owners for 20 years. Eight years ago, Robert Redmond of Robert Redmond Catering bought it because he fell in love with the location. He has tried to keep the cafe casual and homey so customers feel as if they are eating at home when they visit. He has succeeded.

The Raft is a good name for the restaurant, because that’s about how big it is. Redmond says the 13 tables can seat about 35 diners. And since the kitchen is tiny, so is the menu.

Bring a big appetite and some patience when you visit, because though the food is great, the Raft doesn’t take reservations (except for Friday and Saturday nights in the summer) or credit cards.

There may be a bit of a wait for a table or for an entree coming out of the kitchen, but the fresh food and location make up for the delay.

*

Breakfast consists of six entrees and three specials. Each one scored a perfect 10 from our party of nine.

These inexpensive dishes make good use of local fresh ingredients: tomatoes, basil, raspberries, strawberries and shallots. And the baked goods--such as the delicious lemony scone--are made on the premises.

The frittata al Macchrone is a pasta-based quiche, meaning it’s made with cheese and cream. Unlike quiche, however, this clever pie is made with noodles and baked with a filling of mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic and Parmesan.

The sausage and mushroom strada is a rich custard baked with sourdough bread, turkey sausage and fresh mushrooms and herbs. Chilaquiles is two poached eggs with black beans over corn chips with a smoky salsa. Everything is freshly made, including the chips.

One of the most innovative dishes is the Raft’s version of an omelet: a savory cake rolled around spinach, shallots and cream cheese. Picture a jellyroll without the jelly. This and the strada are the best dishes, most of which come piping hot and garnished with fresh fruit.

If you expect desserts for brunch, you may be disappointed. Sweets are limited to croissants, scones and bagels. But what it lacks in desserts the Raft makes up for in exotic coffee drinks. Espresso, lattes, chocolate coffee with orange syrup and cappuccinos are available. Wine, champagne and beer are also on hand.

I’d like to keep this restaurant a secret. But because I am a thoughtful person, I feel compelled to rescue it from obscurity. I just hope I can still get a table.

* The Raft Cafe, 2816 Lafayette Ave., Newport Beach, (949) 673-0793. Open daily for breakfast and lunch, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Friday and Saturday dinners are served 6 to 10 p.m. beginning Friday through early October.