Darya Has Persianality Plus

There are two sides to Persian food. There’s the easily accessible side: sizzling skewers of tangy yogurt-marinated meat, served with fluffy mounds of fragrant rice. Then there are stews and other dishes that typically combine sweet and sour, even bitter or dank flavors. Side two can take a bit of getting used to, but it’s well worth the effort.

Whether you’re a neophyte or an experienced connoisseur of Persian food, Darya in Santa Ana serves both sides well.

Just to nip any confusion in the bud, there are several Daryas in the Southland, and the one reviewed here is now under different ownership from the ones in Orange and Santa Monica.

The Santa Ana Darya is a sea of snowy tablecloths set at comfortable distances beneath high ceilings. Walls are the soothing color of candlelight and contribute to the feel of a hushed, Old World banquet hall.

Nevertheless, Darya’s elegance doesn’t feel stilted. The highly attentive waiters wear tuxedos, but you wouldn’t feel out of place in a decent pair of jeans.

And the portions of Darya’s generally solid renderings are fairly large. While I hesitate to say two people could dine off one entree, I will say three people could easily dine on two entrees plus rice.

Though the restaurant appears to serve a predominantly Persian clientele, the waiters are especially helpful to newcomers. I especially appreciated the restaurant’s flexibility; our waiter happily arranged a sampling of three styles of rice without extra charge.

The appetizer selection is one of the menu’s spottier aspects and requires a bit of navigation. Borani, a dish of sauteed eggplant mixed with yogurt and mint, has a pleasingly silky texture and is nicely accented by a topping of onions fried a deep brown.

I also recommend tah dig, the sheath of crisp rice culled from the bottom of the pot at the end of the intricate Persian method of cooking rice. It’s as satisfying a munch as you’ll find in any cuisine, and it comes with a choice of three sauces. (For a study in contrasts, ask for the piquant pomegranate-walnut dressing and the savory tomato-lentil sauce.)

However, the stuffed grape leaves (dolmeh) are a bit acrid and could use more zest, and the traditional shallot-infused yogurt appetizer known as mast-o musir seemed a bit thin, to me and to my Persian guests.

I was also rather disappointed with the salad Olivier, a potato-chicken salad that can be (for me, anyway) the peak experience in Persian comfort food. This one, however, was a mayonnaise-laden glob of mushy potatoes and a few morsels of chicken, relying solely on green peas to break its monotonous texture.

On the other hand, for a nice palate-cleanser, try panir sabzi, a plate of raw herbs including mint, basil and tarragon, served with feta cheese and walnuts. It’s basic but satisfying.

Rice, of course, is the cornerstone of a Persian meal, and Darya excels with its various pilafs (polo). These can be ordered as an entree, or for a more nominal price, as a side to other entrees.

Polos Are a Solid Choice, as Are Meat, Fish Dishes

And when it comes to these polos, you can hardly go wrong. Albolo polo, in which rice is mixed with meat and juicy black cherries, is on the sweet side, as is the saffron-scented adas polo, mixed with raisins, lentils and dates. Both are wonderful. For a heartier dish, try baghali polo, flavored with dill and lima beans. In a somewhat better world the limas would have been favas and the dill fresh rather than dried, but it’s still a satisfying dish.

The stews are passable but less than stellar. Ghormeh sabzi, a medley of vegetables simmered with red kidney beans, herbs and dried limes, is perhaps the most classic of Persian stews, but it had a slightly off-putting musty flavor not characteristic of the dish. I preferred the gheimeh bademjan, a stew of eggplant in a sassy tomato-saffron sauce with the peculiar high note of veal.

The real jewels in Darya’s crown, however, are its charbroiled meat and fish entrees, all superbly grilled. The shrimp kebab is certainly a standout; these jumbo shrimp are of excellent quality and arrive done to a succulent, juicy turn. So do the scallops, although on my second visit they were dismayingly over-salted. There’s also a flavorful white fish kebab, cooked in its rather tough skin, which seals in the juices. (The seafood platter, which combines all three, is a bargain.)

Naderi kebab is marinated chunks of filet mignon, so tender and juicy they barely require chewing. The same goes for the boneless lamb kebab, done nicely pink, and the boneless chicken, a close cousin to tandoori-style chicken, but moist and redolent of citrus. All come with grilled vegetables hot off the skewer. The only disappointment were the lamb chops, which were tough and strong-tasting.

For dessert, try the bamieh, fritters steeped in a rose-scented syrup, or a superb creme brulee, or a fluffy roll of angel food cake and cream called a roulette.

For all its elegant touches, Darya’s prices are reasonable. Appetizers are $3.96-$6.95, entrees, $10.95-$24.95, and various combination plates enable you to try a range of dishes without breaking the bank. Full bar.

BE THERE

Darya, 1611 Sunflower Ave., Santa Ana.

(714) 557-6600. Monday-Thursday and Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.